Fall is here, so for this issue of The WeekEnder, we’re heading to the Lakes Region of New Hampshire to get a jump on leaf-peeping season. Destination: Lake Winnipesaukee, the largest lake in the state.

I recently bought a Ford Bronco and one of the coolest benefits about buying this car is that owners get to attend a free off-road driving school called the Off-Roadeo. There are four Off-Roadeo locations across the country, and lucky for me, one of them is at Lake Winnipesaukee—a place I’ve always wanted to visit. After all, there’s no better fall destination than this lake set in the foothills of the White Mountains and known for its spectacular fall colors.

But first, let’s get a handle on the geography. Lake Winnipesaukee isn’t the only game in town. There’s also Squam Lake (the setting for the iconic movie On Golden Pond), Newfound Lake (which some say is the cleanest lake in the world), and Lake Winnisquam (Winnipesaukee’s quiet sister), just to name a few. But Winnipesaukee is the grand-daddy of them all, and set on its shores are quaint towns like Wolfeboro (which claims that is the nation’s oldest resort town), Moultonborough (home to the Castle in the Clouds), and Weirs Beach (filled with retro arcades).

Ford chose this part of New Hampshire as the setting for the Off-Roadeo because of its jagged, wooded trails where you can take a wild ride through the backroads, not to mention its myriad natural appeals. “It’s an outdoorsy area where you can go rafting, mountain biking, climbing, camping, fishing—you name it. There are also nature preserves, clear starry skies at night, plus charming little towns,” says Bryan Guldi, the Bronco Experiences marketing manager at Ford. “There’s so much to experience.”

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Lake Winnipesaukee is also known for its rich boating culture, which is celebrated at the New Hampshire Boat Museum. “What draws people to the Lakes Region is the outdoors. It’s being on the lakes and going out on the rivers. Our boating heritage has been a big part of that and goes all the way back to when the Native Americans used these fresh waterways,” says director Martha Cummings. At the museum, you can learn all about the nautical history—including the golden era of steamboats in the 1800s and 1900s, when vacationing New Yorkers and Bostonians arrived by train and were picked up by boat and brought to the grand old resorts in style.

Boating and leaf peeping and adventure? We’re there.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Editor’s Note: For the latest on Covid, visit New Hampshire’s official COVID-19 information page.

If you love small hotels and family-owned inns, this is your place.

For luxury lovers: Center Harbor Inn in Center Harbor

On a sandy beach along the northwest shores of Lake Winnipesaukee, Center Harbor is a classic getaway. Most rooms have decks that overlook the water or the neighboring mountains, and the four-season waterfront hot tub is not to be missed. Best of all: The quiet town of Center Harbor is a short stroll away.

For history buffs: Pickering House Inn in Wolfeboro

This recently renovated 1813 landmark is known locally as “The Yellow House,” and guests give it top ratings for the massive porch, the individually decorated rooms, and the daily gourmet breakfasts.

For sweethearts: Wolfeboro Inn in Wolfeboro

This transformed 1812 lakeside home is all about quintessential New England charm. Bonus: It is conveniently located near the boutiques and dining of Wolfeboro, not to mention the nature trails surrounding the lake.

For families: Mill Falls at the Lake in Meredith

Depending on your family’s needs, you’ll find it at this resort made up of four unique lakeside properties: Church Landing (a luxe Adirondack-style inn with lush gardens), Bay Point (a 24-room nautically themed inn), Chase House (a cottage retreat), and The Inn at Mill Falls (a restored nineteenth-century linen mill).

For relaxation-seekers: Lake Opechee Inn and Spa in Laconia

On the peaceful shores of Lake Opechee, an historic mill has been converted into a 34-room inn with fireplaces and balconies with breathtaking lake views.

Whatever you’re looking for—pub grub, upscale farm-to-table dining—the Lakes Region delivers.

Best breakfasts

Union Diner in Laconia - Sometimes simple is underrated. This old-school diner tucked into a strip mall does the basics well—with a twist. For example: a cheddar omelet with house-made bacon jam, which is the perfect mix of sweet and savory.

Bayberry Juice Bar in Wolfeboro - This open and airy spot is a great option for healthy breakfast bites like cucumber avocado toast with a drizzle of cilantro lime vinaigrette, plus organic smoothies and cold-pressed juices. The customer service is just as impressive as the menu, and the sign on the wall says it all: “Be the reason someone smiles today.”

Lunchtime

Marker 21 in Wolfeboro - Angle for the lakefront balcony seating at this elevated pub with gorgeous dining views. We can’t get enough of the carne asada fries, topped with marinated steak, a blend of Mexican cheeses, chimichurri, roasted red peppers, cilantro, and spicy crema.

Back Bay Boathouse in Wolfeboro - The family-friendly lakeside Back Bay Boathouse is an ideal lunch break in between stops. The restaurant runs daily specials like $1 wings, with sauces ranging from Korean gochu sang to garlic parmesan.

Casual eats

Dockside in Alton Bay - Diners rave about the lobster tacos topped with chipotle aioli at this family-run spot right on the water.

Canoe in Meredith - Don’t miss the lobster mac ‘n cheese and the house-made chips topped with creamy blue cheese at this lovely tavern with a view of the lake.

Ellacoya Barn and Grille in Gilford - A 19th-century barn provides a delightfully rustic backdrop for cozy classics like BBQ ribs, burgers, and steak tips.

Date night

Pavilion in Wolfeboro - With a dining experience that rivals top restaurants in nearby Boston, Pavilion offers an inventive and seasonal menu with highlights like a pan-roasted duck breast with garlic-roasted radicchio, roasted figs, and nasturtium. Enjoy after-dinner craft cocktails by the outdoor firepit.

Laconia Local Eatery in Laconia - This elegant but unpretentious spot in an old train station switches up the farm-to-table menu every couple of weeks to ensure the freshest of ingredients. Don’t miss the scallops—a fan favorite.

O’Steaks and Seafood in Laconia - “Excellent fine dining on the water on Lake Opechee,” says Bryan Guldie. “I loved the spicy pickles and bacon appetizer.”

Sweets

Bailey’s Bubble in Wolfeboro - Step right up to the window at this old-school counter for an array of choices (coffee Heath yogurt ice cream, Fluffernutter sundae) and don’t be deterred if there’s a long line. And after all, isn’t that the sign of a good scoop?

Sawyer’s Dairy Bar in Gilford - All the ice cream flavors at this restaurant with outdoor counter service originate from the same base that has been used—and loved—since 1945, made with dairy from the cows grazing in the farmland behind the restaurant.

Drinks

Lone Wolfe Brewing Company in Wolfeboro - This first microbrewery in town brews its craft beers right on site. Try the single-hopped citra double IPA, but drink slowly—it has been called “deceptively dangerous.”

Patrick’s Pub & Eatery in Gilford - For a lively evening of drinks and snacks and music, head to this pub that embraces its Gaelic roots with bites like the Irish Nachos (thin-sliced fresh-fried potato chips with BBQ pulled pork, cheddar cheese, bacon, sour cream, and scallions) washed down, of course, with an Irish Orange Old Fashioned (Jameson Orange and orange bitters).

What’s a trip to Lake Winnipesaukee without getting on the water? These boating experiences are not to be missed.

Millie B. in Wolfeboro - You’ll get a taste of the area’s golden age of boating on this 28-foot triple cockpit mahogany boat, a replica of a 1928 design. And you’ll hear some fun local stories and legends from the engaging captain—like the fact that Jimmy Fallon is a regular visitor and named his daughter Winnie, after Lake Winnipesaukee.

The M/S Mount Washington in Weirs Beach - This historic Lake Winnipesaukee steamboat, which recently celebrated its 150th anniversary, is a grand dame that you can’t help but adore. Scenic cruises depart Weirs Beach daily from late May through October.

Mailboat Cruises in Weirs Beach - A floating post office? The U.S. Mailboat navigates the area’s small waterways to provide postal service to island residents. Hop aboard for a scenic tour as the skipper narrates the sightseeing. Bonus: Passengers can mail a postcard from the boat with a collectible stamp.

Outdoors

Here’s where the locals go to embrace the great outdoors.

Gunstock Mountain Resort in Gilford - This ski resort is the setting for Ford’s Off-Roadeo. A ski area in winter, it is open the rest of the year to hikers and sports lovers. Head to the adventure park or take the lift to the top of the mountain to enjoy the breathtaking views of Lake Winnipesaukee.

Mount Roberts in Moultonborough - Sure, you can do the moderately challenging hike to the summit for panoramic views, but take it from us: The most scenic portion of this mountain is the ledge area along the Mt. Roberts Trail, where the Lake Winnipesaukee views are second to none. Enjoy the wildflowers and wild blueberries along the way.

Knights Pond in Wolfeboro - Circle the pond on this easy 2.8-mile trail that ambles over large boulders and past sky-scraping pine trees. There’s very little elevation gain, making it an ideal pick for kids and dogs

Arts and culture

Looking for culture with a side of beauty? This is our Lakes Region shortlist.

New Hampshire Boat Museum in Wolfeboro - If you appreciate the fine craftsmanship of a vintage boat, then check out the exhibits and programming at this sweet little museum dedicated to the preservation of boating history. That said, it’s more than just a museum: You’ll find boat rides (see the Millie B., above), boat building classes, and more. The museum will also soon be expanding with a second space in nearby Moultonborough.

Castle in the Clouds in Moultonborough - You don’t need to be a history buff to appreciate a tour of Castle in the Clouds, a mountaintop estate built in 1913. Besides a look back at how people lived lavishly in the past, you will encounter woods, waterfalls, and spectacular views.

The Loon Center in Moultonborough - Nature lovers flock to this 200-acre wildlife sanctuary along a pristine shoreline. The trails and exhibits will leave you with a better understanding of New Hampshire’s natural environment as well as the aquatic birds that thrive in the state’s fresh waters.

Lakes Region Model Railroad Museum in Wolfeboro - Located in the recently restored Freight House, this new spot (coming in 2023) will spotlight this area's rich railroad history.

Shopping

Like many vacation spots, the Lakes Region has its share of cute boutiques. Here are a few of the best.

The Old Country Store in Moultonborough - This 1781 country store’s claim to fame? It’s one of the oldest retail establishments in America. Sift through unique treasures like wrought iron hardware, penny candy, books, and cooking utensils. There’s also a small museum upstairs that’s worth a peek.

Bayberry Provisions in Wolfeboro - This high-style boutique sources its curated collection from other area businesses. Shop for all things entertaining: serving pieces, craft beer, hostess gifts, and all the gourmet snacks and supplies to assemble a killer charcuterie board.

Lake Effect in Meredith - A cute boutique with colorful clothing, accessories, home goods, and lake-themed gifts. Want to get something personalized? The owner can make it happen.