Sip Tripper

Japan's Old Fashioned Road Trip Makes a Modern Comeback

The benefits of slow travel


Blessed with impeccable, rapid public transportation, traveling from city to city in Japan is almost seamless. As fortunate as this ease of travel is, it overshadows the art of the old fashioned road trip. The good news for this intriguing country is that road tripping has made a significant comeback; travelers now opt to arrive at a mainstay and then grab the keys and go deeper into more remote lands.

One of the most popular roads once less traveled but now taking shape is the road journey from Kanazawa to Kaga, a route filled with surprises at every turn. Travelers begin in Kanazawa, a name that translates to “marsh of gold” in Japanese. It’s a city rich with samurai districts, world class markets, and the best places for deep cultural immersion. Post-visit to Kanazawa, head onward to the nature-enriched region of Kaga in the southwestern end of Ishikawa Prefecture. Here is where you’ll welcome peace, serenity and soothing dips in the area’s most famed therapeutic thermal hot springs resorts.

For those who aren’t hard-wired for long road trips, fear not as this route from end to end is only 28 miles. The idea is slow down to embrace the adventure over the course of several days, beginning deep in the heart of Kanazawa. Here, one begins in the Nagamachi Samurai District to soak up a slice of life as it was centuries ago. The well-preserved ancient houses and tiled earthen walls are capped with a highlight of the Nomura Residence, featuring an inner garden with streams and a mini waterfall. This experience is often coupled with a stroll through the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art for a glimpse of modern day works that highlight the dichotomy that exists in this city. Kanazawa Castle is one of the city’s notable highlights as it was once home to the Maeda family during the rule of the Kaga domain. Much of this castle has been faithfully restored to its original splendor.

For an up-close glimpse of everyday life, the famed Omicho Market is where a lively show comprised of colors, tastes, aromas, and sounds is strewn across stalls staffed by over 180 vendors. The market experience pairs well with a Japanese cooking class at Kanazawa House with lessons on how to prepare exquisite Japanese cuisine – taught by English-speaking experts.

The soothing world-renowned Kenrokuen Gardens provides a respite from the fast pace of a city. Originally constructed by feudal lords of the Kaga clan as the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, its appearance changes dramatically every season, with cherry blossoms in spring and in the snowy winter, Yukizuri is in place. This is a set of ropes to protect the trees from the weight of packed snowfall.

No visit to Kanazawa is complete without a stop in Higashi Chaya District, famed for its geishas, and labyrinthine streets. It’s also where the unique ubiquitous geiko teahouses accept clients on referral so you can get a sense of this fascinating cultural phenomenon up close.

When it comes to nightlife in Ishikawa, Kanazawa’s Katamachi District tops the list with its flashy bars, pubs, pulsating nightclubs, and variety of cuisine -- so be sure to plan time in the evening to experience this thrill.

In the early hours of the day, hop the car and head toward Kaga for a stop at the Kitamaebune Ship Museum. This museum celebrates historic wealthy shipowners who utilized this route connecting Hokkaido to Osaka. From there, the nearby Hasitate Fishing Port is abuzz with activity -- and a wonderful place to feast. And then grab your smart phones to capture Instagram-able moments on the drive to Amazogen Cape, a natural viewpoint with scenic vistas across the Sea of Japan (East Sea).

Need more recommendations? How about an active adventure in Kaga at Kakusenkei Gorge, which runs through the lush forest near the hot springs village of Yamanaka Onsen. The waterside trail runs parallel to the river for 1.3km and walkers are treated to the incredibly simple beauty of crashing waterfalls and unique rock formations accentuating the deep blue pools of water.

Crafting is a huge part of life here, and it’s a beautiful few hours spent strolling a street like Yuge-kaido. This area is full of workshops so you can try your hand at Kutani-yaki porcelain and famed Yamanaka lacquerware, famous for expert lathework. And, for a dose of spirituality, Natadera Temple is a unique discovery dating back 2,000 years. This temple was created from natural rock formations high above its mossy forests, traditional-style gardens, and carp-filled ponds, earning Natadera a star in the Michelin Green Guide.

Finally, down time comes in the form of hot, bubbling, therapeutic waters in one of Kaga’s four rich unique hot springs villages: Yamashiro, Yamanaka, Katayamazu, and Awazu, each with a variety of authentic ryokan style accomodations from boutique family-run to luxury.

For more information on Ishikawa’s tourism opportunities, visit https://www.ishikawatravel.jp/en/