In the sun-drenched wine regions of La Rioja, Spain, where the earth yields its treasures to vines producing Tempranillo and Garnacha, my first surprising revelation unfolded: the number of wineries rivals California’s Napa Valley. During my journey to Logroño, a historic town in the heart of La Rioja, I discovered wines of exceptional quality. However, beneath its vine-clad hills lies a medieval gem brimming with culinary delights and historical intrigue.

Arriving at Bilbao Airport, a picturesque hour-plus drive through the mountains led me to a cobblestone street closed to traffic, where Hotel Eurostar’s Fuerte Ruavieja awaited. Little did I know this hotel stood directly on the path of the Camino de Santiago -- a pilgrimage renowned for its transformative power. The trail meanders through streets and vineyards, with directional signage embedded in the street -- of a scallop shell and arrows pointing onward through landscapes and quaint villages.

Further exploration would have to wait until later, as lunch at Ajo Negro, a Michelin-starred restaurant, would be the focus of my attention for the next few hours. Ajo Negro encapsulates the essence of La Rioja’s gastronomic tradition, but with a Mexican culinary twist… owners Mariana Sánchez, originally from Cuernavaca, Mexico, and her husband, Gonzalo Baquedano of Logroño, create a fusion of Mexican and La Rioja cuisine.

From offal-filled tacos to elegant Montecillo Via Monty white wine, each dish was a symphony of flavors blending tradition from both Mexico and Spain. Several courses were served, including a small puff pastry filled with anchovy cream, a few prawn bits drowned in a translucent bowl of tomato gazpacho ice cream, and the prettiest dish of seabass ceviche. A Mexican-inspired dish of a fried zucchini topped with a jalapeño was served with Oaxaca cheese before our server brought a covered bowl and lifted the cover to reveal a pillar of smoke (from the wood of a local olive tree) over a squid tagliatelle dish. A corn tortilla stuffed with prawns tasted a bit spicy. Next to the tortilla, the head of the prawn came with instructions to squeeze the head for the special sauce.

A Viña Monty 2016 Graciano was my first introduction to the red wines of this region. My palate absorbed black licorice, so I loved this wine especially. I later discovered it had won ‘Best Graciano in the World’ at the International Wine Challenge.

A Mexican dish of red mullet with wakame and pineapple captured my attention before a plate of grilled venison with beetroot and chestnut appeared in the middle of a pool of reduction juice of the meat, and a outer ring of beet reduction. Dessert was a nod to Mexico with a Pina Colada rum dish and a pumpkin and chocolate brownie with almonds and Mexican chocolate.

One nap later back at Fuerte Ruavieja, and I was ready for a guided tour to explore the walkable terracotta-roofed village of Logroño, historically a place of passage, its borders disputed between the Iberian kingdoms of Castille, Navarre, and Aragon during the Middle Ages. Today, this is where pilgrims with diverse backgrounds held walking sticks as they traversed the Camino de Santiago, making frequent stops to rest and to share stories of their transformative, spiritual odysseys. The profound significance of the Camino unfolded throughout the guided tour.

The tower at the Church of San Bartolomé was once part of the city’s defense line. And in the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Redonda, a Michelangelo painting of the crucifixion is in a vault behind the altar. This is a coin-pay-to-view moment. The symbolic details are in the signage at the painting, stating:

Where does one go from seeing the work of Michelangelo? In front of the Museo de La Rioja before heading to the edge of the Ebro River and then to Calle Laurel, where lighted alleyways brim with pincho stops offering a taste of local delicacies.

We stopped in Casa Victor to order a few pinchos and a glass of Garnacha. Pinchos, referred to as tapas in the south, are a great option for a light meal – especially following our Michelin-star lunch. We ordered a stick with olives, anchovies, and peppers, and another plate with a single serving of arancini.

After a restful night’s sleep, the next day was spent visiting the two locations of Bodegas Montecillo -- at the winery and then at the bodega. With a total barrel production of 16,000, Montecillo is the third oldest winery in La Rioja, and the only winery that has concrete vats. From the lively Crianza to the opulent Reserva, each wine told a story of patience and craftsmanship, thanks to Winemaker and Technical Director, Mercedes Garcia Ruperez.

Our tasting included the following wines:

Montecillo Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2022 of which a viticulturist found the mutation to create the Tempranillo Blanco with a floral bouquet and finish of bright berry elegance. In addition to using the Tempranillo Blanco, a blend of Virua (28%) from Rioja Alta and Sauvignon Blanc (44%) attributed to its excellence.

One notable tasting of a wine available in the U.S. – a Montecillo Gran Reserva 2015, is presenting as perfection right now. If you taste this and close your eyes to enjoy the wash of velvety elegance on your palate, you might conjure up images of being seated in a room with red velvet drapes.

The intensity of a Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial 1994 was a treat to sip – especially if you enjoy black licorice. A bouquet of green pepper and mushroom indicates the vintage in play, as well as the dark ruby red color. On the palate, this wine offers complexity with ripe red fruits, oak integration, and a subtle balsamic finish.

On the drive back to the airport in Bilbao, a reflection of my journey through Logroño and La Rioja was a realization of this symphony of flavors and traditions. From the lively streets to the serene vineyards, each moment was a toast to the region’s rich tapestry.

Charlene Peters is a travel writer and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."