Unicorn Wines: The Rare, The Revolutionary, and The Unforgettable
7 Bottles Worth the Sip
Unicorn wines are rare, mystical, and endlessly sought-after. Here are seven wines in the category of “unicorn” wines, including one revolutionary pour of alcohol-free bubbles. These bottles may hail from forgotten corners of prestigious vineyards, be crafted from obscure varietals, or emerge from producers introducing a new concept such as alcohol-free wines. I recommend the below wines from personal reviews of bottles that offer an unforgettable tasting experience.
#1 - Soalheiro 2023 Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho, Portugal
Soalheiro, a name that translates to “sun” in Portuguese, aptly reflects the radiant personality of this Alvarinho from the Monção e Melgaço Vinho Verde DOC. Crafted from the oldest vines in the region, each sip feels like a sunbeam dancing on your palate.
The Primeiras Vinhas makes its entrance in a slim, elegant bottle, though its delicacy ends there. Pour a glass, and you’re greeted with a golden hue that suggests its richness and complexity. The nose reveals a symphony of ripe tropical fruits, buttery whispers, and a tantalizing hint of spice. But what truly sets this wine apart is its texture. The subtle oak fermentation lends a creamy depth without overpowering the zippy acidity that defines great Alvarinho.
In its youth, this wine feels almost tropical, with pineapple and citrus notes mingling on the tongue. Yet there’s a firmness, an underlying structure that hints at the grandeur it will achieve with a bit of cellar time. A few years down the line, expect those buttery and spicy notes to expand.
And let’s not forget its vegan credentials— a thoughtful nod to modern preferences. Pair it with oysters, grilled seabass, or even an aromatic Thai curry, and you’ll find its versatility as captivating as its taste.
This isn’t just any wine. It’s a reminder of the sun-kissed slopes of its origin, a place where Alvarinho thrives and shines. Bottle price: $26.99 on Wine.com
#2 – Moderato Cuvée Révolutionnaire Sparkling Pétillant Blanc de Noir, France
At the dawn of Dry January, the concept of an alcohol-free sparkling wine often invites skepticism. Yet, when Cuvée Révolutionnaire Pétillant Sparkling appeared on the appetizer table on New Year’s Day, the initial wariness quickly transformed into delight. Its pale straw hue, kissed with golden highlights, set the stage for a sensory experience that was anything but lackluster. On the nose, delicate whispers of candied fruits intertwined with subtle almond sweetness. The palate delivered on that promise, with a fruity, well-balanced structure enlivened by fine, persistent bubbles. In fact, once tasted, phones emerged, labels were photographed, and plans for stocking up commenced—this was no mere Dry January novelty.
Cuvée Révolutionnaire Pétillant is Moderato’s pioneering approach in the world of alcohol-free beverages. This top-selling French brand, founded by Fabien Marchand-Cassagne and Sébastien Thomas, has captivated wine lovers with its innovative de-alcoholization techniques that retain the soul of traditional winemaking. Available in blanc, rouge, rosé, and sparkling varieties, Moderato’s offerings have graced prestigious Parisian tables like Taillevent and Cho-Cho, and now they’re making waves stateside. The sparkling pétillant, crafted from Merlot (Blanc Noir) grapes, is a standout, offering just 10–15 calories per 100 ml— a welcome bonus for those who want to indulge without guilt.
From its origins in the picturesque Gers region, Moderato combines the best of Gascony’s terroir with cutting-edge technology. Under the expert guidance of Sébastien Thomas, the wines highlight varietals like Colombard, Tannat, and Gros Manseng, known for their bold aromatics and ability to shine through the de-alcoholization process. Using vacuum distillation at a gentle 35°C, the alcohol is removed while the wine’s character remains intact, resulting in a product that’s not only enjoyable but also remarkably versatile. Pair a glass with a sweet-savory appetizer or a decadent chocolate fondant, and you’ll find yourself toasting a new era in wine— one where taste, health, and sophistication coexist harmoniously.
“More than just an alternative to alcohol, Moderato offers a new way to enjoy wine, without compromising on taste,” says Sébastien Thomas, head winemaker. "Liberté, Egalité . . . Sobriété!”
Bottle price: $27.99
Order online at www.betterrhodes.com.
#3 – Priest Ranch 2022 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California
If you’re familiar with Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, you know it has a certain richness, intensity, and opulence. Believe me, this wine will wow you. I poured for a small group of women who prefer white and rosé – and expressed a disdain of red wine… yet once tasted, there wasn’t a drop left in the bottle. It was a head-turning moment for these ladies. Perhaps it’s the nod to Old World craftsmanship with grapes from an estate that sits on the Somerston property, where more than 1,600 acres of sustainably farmed land stretch across the Vaca Mountains. Most impressive is this wine is born from a surprising blend of 24 vineyard blocks. Yes, 24, which lands it in the category of unicorn wines. It’s not often that such a multitude of terroirs is harnessed in a single bottle. The resulting wine is a standout for its balance and restraint, a rarity in Napa Valley’s higher-end offerings.
On the nose, the 2022 Cabernet greets you with aromas of ripe red cherries and a subtle undercurrent of black licorice, and on the palate, it’s a beautiful expression of Napa’s power. Those cherries make their presence felt, and with just the right touch of cinnamon, clove, and a whisper of vanilla to add dimension. The tannins are present but silky and unassuming with the promise of even more depth if left to mature over the next several years.
Pair this wine with a rich chimichurri steak or hearty mushroom pasta. Bottle price: $60
#4 – Dutcher Crossing 2014 Port Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, California
Some ports settle into heavy, syrupy sweetness, but this one delivers all the richness you’d expect, but with an unexpected lightness from the first swirl. This port was poured for a group of tasters who weren’t used to port, didn’t really have an interest, but then tasted it and finished the bottle. On the nose, think fruitcake, but in the best possible way, with almond extract and vanilla – all met with a touch of oak for added depth. On the palate, ripe, sweet berries and raisins take center stage, wrapped in silky tannins. Pair this with all forms of chocolate: truffles, lava cake, peppermint chocolate bark… anything that satisfies your sweet tooth. Bottle price: $35
#5 – Dutcher Crossing Grace Reserve Brut Rosé, Russian River Valley, California
When you find a perfect sparkling, it becomes a crowd pleaser – and this namesake to the proprietor’s great-niece, Grace, is refined and radiant. Crafted in the traditional Methode Champenoise and sourced from Dutcher Crossing’s estate Pinot Noir in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley (with a kiss of Chardonnay for good measure), this sparkling wine is a love letter to Old-World style with a distinctly California spirit.
The first glance at its soft dusty rose hue hints at its aroma of ripe raspberries, strawberries, and cranberries that mingle with delicate notes of freshly baked bread and lemon peel. Think summer berry tart cooling on a windowsill. The palate follows with tart cherries, crisp green apple, and zesty lemon, all carried by a refined mousse and a long, clean, subtly mineral finish kissed by citrus and tart raspberries.
Pair this with cedar plank salmon, a bright bruschetta, but please don’t wait for an occasion, as this is a wine that is the occasion. Bottle price: $59
#6 – Pine Ridge 2023 Chenin Blanc+ Viognier, California
Some pairings just work, and this Chenin Blanc and Viognier blend is one of those effortlessly charming duos that surprised and delighted a small group of tasters who were hesitant to try something outside their comfort zone. But this Chenin Blanc proved its elegance when blended with Viognier.
The nose is a bouquet of white blossoms, ripe stone fruit, and a citrusy lift, while the palate delivers crisp pear, honeysuckle, and juicy melon. Bright acidity keeps it fresh, and the Viognier adds a subtle richness. The finish? Long, clean, and refreshing.
Pair this wine with oysters, spicy dishes, or a cheeseboard. Just don’t take this wine too seriously; it is meant to be enjoyed. Bottle price: $16
#7 – Ehlers Estate 2022 Portrait Red Blend, St. Helena, California
At Ehlers Estate, winemaking isn’t just about blending grapes. It’s about storytelling, and this wine is a love story, just in time for Valentine’s Day. It’s got balance, energy, and undeniable romance.
The blend is led by 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing power and depth, while 16.4% Cabernet Franc adds a whisper of intrigue. 16.3% Merlot lends a silky touch, and 1.3% Petit Verdot gives just the right amount of edge. Together, these grapes create richness and restraint.
The nose is exhilarating, opening with warm blackberry crumble, fresh cream, and hints of baking spice, mint sage, and... crushed rocks. On the palate, textured tannins guide a rush of blueberries, crushed plums, and wet river stone, all lifted by a pulsating acidity. The finish? Long and complex, this is a wine that doesn’t just linger, it evolves. Love stories are meant to be savored, as is this Portrait Red Blend. For a bottle meant to pour a few glasses, it surpassed our expectations, and the bottle was finished by the end of the night. Bottle price: $80
Charlene Peters is a travel/wine journalist and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."