Mistral of Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Rhône Valley wines rock!... pebbles and limestone
A 15-minute train ride from Avignon will land you in the windy wine region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (translation: The Pope’s new castle), located in southeastern France. Be prepared to arrive in the swirl of a westerly mistral (wind) – a bold weather incident that occurs frequently and without abandon within this southernmost point in the Rhône Valley. But, hey, the wind is what helps these grapes thrive during weather challenges, ultimately producing some of the world’s most sumptuous wines. Think soft, warm pebbles and limestone to attract the sun’s heat, and cool northwesterly winds to dry the vines from the rain and potential mildew.
To immerse yourself into an education to this premier wine region in Provence, it’s best to begin at Musée du Vin (Museum of Wine), where you walk through the steps of history of a winemaking region that began in the 14th century, when the little hill took a turn from the Romans to the French in papal history. Starting with the climate, the Rhône Valley is situated between the Alps and the East, with continental weather in the north and Mediterranean weather patterns in the south. The grapevines of the region are trained in goblet trellises (the vines do resemble goblets but are oftentimes referred to as bush vines). Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are red, mainly because the Côtes du Rhône is influenced by grenache.
Pictured, behind the oak barrels, large cement tanks inside Maison Bouachon are utilized in place of barrels to prevent oxidation of the porous grenache grapes.
A visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape wouldn’t be complete without a stop at a few wineries. Bouachon le Pavillon is a perfect spot to start the journey. This traditional boutique winery has a sommelier on staff: Florent (Flo) Rigaud who speaks English quite well, which is essential to orchestrate a chocolate/wine pairing workshop for English-speaking visitors from around the world.
This wine region grows 13 grape varietals, but while most wine enthusiasts love the magical blend of Châteauneuf-du-Pape-grown grenache, syrah, cinsault and Mourvèdre, you may not know about Châteauneuf-du-Pape white. A 2016 blend of grenache blanc, Roussanne, clairette, bourboulenc, picpoul and picardan grapes had notes of pear with honeysuckle and paired in the most elegant way with a piece of lavender-infused dark chocolate from nearby Avignon. Perhaps it’s the Provence terroir of lavender fields that adds balance to the regional pairing, but it works. A white Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a rare find outside of the region. Sip while there.
Moving on to red wines, a 2016 blend of grenache, syrah, Mourvèdre and cinsault is the first in Bouachon’s organic production (no pesticides). This wine spent two years in the barrel and the tannins show it to be a young wine to be laid down for a year or so. If you like tannins, drink it now and enjoy a wonderful nose of cherries and raspberries.
Like the fierce mistral of the region, a shift in tasting elevated with the crown of the Pope, or “La Tiare du Pape” labels of red wines in a blend of three grape years and over six years for the maturation process. This wine represents the region precisely and pairs well with a dark chocolate truffle filled with green tea, raspberry and strawberry. Seriously. It works.
A reserve 2010 “Dedication” of grenache and syrah grown from 70-year-old vines and barrel aged for 18 months is a wine of perfect elegance that, yes, pairs well with a finish of chocolate.
Charles Botte designed this copyrighted bottle to show the Mistral’s effect on the wine region. There is a rough sand texture on the bottle to emulate the dust in the wind. The wine is a blend of several vintage years and half a million bottles of this wind-curved bottle are sold per year around the world.