Spring is about fresh starts. Tulips, taxes, and the annual illusion that you’re going to stop drinking red wine by the glass and start sipping something with “a chillable vibe.” But let’s be honest: what spring really needs is a few great bottles… wines that are joyful, a little indulgent, and worthy of the sun finally setting after 7 p.m.

This year’s splurge list ranges from an award-winning Fiano grown in the surprisingly lofty High Plains of Texas (yes, Texas) to a silken, strawberry-kissed Brut Rosé from Champagne’s most elegant overachiever, Billecart-Salmon. These are wines that know how to make an entrance… just like spring itself.

#1 - Portree Cellars 2021 Fiano, Texas High Plains

Texas does Fiano… and does it well. When you think “Fiano,” you probably think Campania. Southern Italy. Sun, seafood, maybe a plate of spaghetti alle vongole. What you probably don’t think of, well, at least not yet… is Texas. But this bottle from Portree Cellars just might change that.

Fiano is one of those quietly noble white grapes: full of character, texture, and, when grown well, the kind of elegance that makes sommeliers go misty-eyed. Portree’s 2021 expression, grown in the Texas High Plains (yes, there is elevation in Texas), is a lovely ambassador for both grape and place.

There’s a whisper of lemon rind and sea breeze on the nose, followed by tropical fruit and a hint of roasted nuts. The palate is dry and focused, bright with lemon and grapefruit, but not one-dimensional. Minimal processing is the philosophy at Portree Cellars, and the evidence is visible. That crystallization on the cork? Natural, harmless, and, to some wine lovers, a badge of honor. It’s also a sign this wine hasn’t been overly filtered or fussed with, and the result is something clean, precise, and full of character.

Awarded Best in Class at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, this bottle isn't just good for Texas. It’s just plain good. Bottle price: $32

#2 - Fleurie 2023 “Les Cocottes,” Beaujolais, France

This label has a pretty name – and a prettier wine. With a name like “Les Cocottes” (French slang for “chicks” or “sweethearts”), you might expect something whimsical or overly cute. But this Fleurie is no flighty flirt. It’s a wine with charm, certainly, but also poise.

Made from 100% Gamay, a grape that often lives in the shadow of its more famous parent, Pinot Noir, this bottle is a lovely example of why Gamay deserves a spotlight of its own. (Yes, it’s a cross between Pinot Noir and the now-extinct white grape Gouais Blanc, a union that produced some of the wine world’s more lovable oddballs.)

Fleurie is one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, and arguably the most aptly named. Wines from this appellation are known for being the most floral and silky of the bunch, and “Les Cocottes” is a textbook case. Ruby-hued and perfumed with violets and cherries, it’s the kind of red that practically dances out of the glass. There’s a freshness here that makes it irresistible when it’s slightly chilled. Oh, and no food required (though it wouldn’t say no to a roast chicken with mushrooms). Bottle price: $35

#3 - Dutcher Crossing 2021 Stuhlmuller Vineyard Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, Calfornia

There’s elegance in every sip of this Chardonnay, which captivates as this wine unfolds in layers – it is irresistibly complex. In the glass, its pale straw color hints at the richness to come. The aroma intrigues with a harmonious blend of golden apples, butterscotch, fresh cream, and delicate white flowers. Then, a second wave arrives, bringing wet stone and the comfort scent of a baguette. On the palate, flavors of poached pears, lemon yogurt, and crisp apples are balanced by a creamy texture that lingers just long enough to leave a whisper of lemon squares on the finish. Pair it with chicken piccata over a bed of linguini. Bottle price: $45

#4 - 2019 J. Lohr Cuvée St. E Red Blend, Paso Robles, California

Paso Robles isn’t the first place that springs to mind when you’re thinking about the Right Bank of Bordeaux. But then, the 2019 J. Lohr Cuvée St. E Red Blend from J. Lohr isn’t trying to be Bordeaux; it’s just channeling its better instincts. This is the Merlot-forward wine that so many Merlots wish they could be: plush without being boring. The heart of this wine is firmly in Pomerol, with its supple textures and inviting warmth, but there’s a quiet nod to Pauillac with a backbone of Paso-grown Cabernet Sauvignon adding structure and poise. Cabernet Franc adds a fragrant lift, much like the wines of Saint-Émilion, though here it feels a bit more California sunshine than Right Bank restraint.

What makes thi cuvée particularly compelling is its drinkability. It doesn’t demand a filet mignon or a dinner party. It’s smooth, seamless, and remarkably elegant. There’s dark fruit, yes, but nothing jammy; the oak is well-integrated, and the finish lingers just long enough to remind you to pour another glass. Bottle price: $50

#5 – DiamAndes de Uco 2022 Chardonnay, Grand Reserve, Mendoza, Argentina

This bright yellow with a greenish hue Chardonnay has both altitude AND attitude that makes the case that Mendoza doesn’t just do Malbec. The vineyard itself sits at 3,600 feet above sea level, a dramatic altitude that gives this Chardonnay both tension and clarity. It's part of the ambitious Clos de los Siete project, the wine-world equivalent of a power summit: Bordeaux prestige (think Classified Growth Château Malartic-Lagravière) meets Argentine grit and altitude-driven terroir. The result? A wine with a French accent but South American soul.

Made from organically grown grapes and aged for a year in French oak, this is a Chardonnay that leans toward richness. There’s ripe pear, golden apple, and a quiet swirl of baking spice, but also a brightness that comes from all that elevation. The oak is there, but thoughtfully handled. Certified sustainable and vegan (a nod to modern drinking values), this Chardonnay is a fine example of how the New World is redefining what elegance looks and tastes like. It's intense, yes, and complex… but also drinkable now, no cellaring required (though it wouldn’t mind a few years of quiet time, either).

If you’re tired of Chardonnay that tastes like buttered toast or lemon water, this one finds its place somewhere in the middle. Bottle price: $35.99

#6 - Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé, Champagne, France

This sparkling rosé is more than just a pretty face. There are rosé Champagnes that flirt. And then there’s Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé — easily the most elegant seduction in a bottle I’ve had in recent memory. This is a Champagne that doesn’t need grand gestures. No overwrought fruit or gratuitous sparkle… just quiet confidence and impeccable taste, best shared with friends who appreciate the world of wines.

This Champagne house has been family-run since 1818 and is known for its restraint and precision; the Brut Rosé is its calling card: 40% Chardonnay from some of the region’s best crus, 30% Pinot Noir (vinified as red wine, a rarity these days), and 30% Pinot Meunier for softness and depth. The grapes come from prized sites in the Montagne de Reims, Grande Vallée de la Marne, and Epernay’s southern slopes, essentially the Champagne equivalent of the neighborhood with the good schools and the best croissants.

The color is pale pink perfection, with a shimmer that is only excelled by its aromatics of crushed raspberries, blood orange zest, a whiff of spring flowers, like the refined scent of a garden in good taste. On the palate, it’s creamy and silken, the mousse fine and persistent. There’s wild strawberry, a flicker of citrus, and a finish that’s part raspberry, part restraint. And crucially, it’s luxuriously dry.

It's a Champagne that knows how to linger, both on the palate and in memory. This is the Champagne you open with someone who knows the difference between flirtation and finesse.

Best with wild salmon or something to properly celebrate as this is a rosé Champagne by which all others should be judged. Bottle price: $110

#7 - Sempre Vive 2015 Eugenia Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga, California

Spring might be about fresh starts, but that doesn’t mean your wine has to be all Vinho Verde, Sauvignon Blanc, and pét-nats. Sometimes the season calls for something with a little gravitas… a wine with a story, some swagger, and ideally, volcanic soils. Enter Sempre Vive’s 2015 Eugenia Cabernet Sauvignon, a bold, brooding beauty from Calistoga, where the temperatures swing harder than your mood after daylight saving time kicks in. That dramatic diurnal shift helps the wine keep its acid in check, while the rich soils and long Napa sun lend power and poise. Disclaimer: This vintage is near the end of its prime (drink it now if you’ve got a bottle, trust me, and use a decanter), but the 2017 is a worthy successor. 2017 Bottle Price: $60

Charlene Peters is a wine writer and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."