7 Asian American Chefs Share Their Favorite Food Haunts
Asia Pacific-inspired flavors are a cornerstone of America’s multicultural food landscape, thanks to the mosaic of communities who immigrated to the US and brought along their rich culinary influences. In honor of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, we asked seven prominent and rising-star chefs and food entrepreneurs to share their go-to dining spots--and the dishes they obsess over. The result? An insider’s guide to some of the most delicious and lesser-known chef haunts in America. Read on for meals across the country worth building a trip around.
Wen-Jay Ying
Wen-Jay Ying, founder/owner, Local Roots NY
Ying, who was born on Long Island to parents who immigrated from China, is the founder of Local Roots NYC, a community-driven business that connects New Yorkers with sustainable, family-run farmers, and distributes more than 60,000 freshly harvested pounds of sustainable produce to more than 1,500 households each year.
Ying’s go-to spots:
Whenever she needs a comfort food fix, Ying heads for Golden Fung Wong Bakery on Mott Street in New York City’s Chinatown. “It’s so hard to find Chinese steamed rice cake and sticky rice cakes, but this is what I grew up eating,” she said. “My grandpa would bring them to me from Chinatown, and it reminds me of him.” For Thai food, Ying heads to the Jackson Heights neighborhood of Queens—one of the world’s most diverse counties—and stops at Sripraphai for khao soi, a rich coconut curry noodle soup originating in northern Thailand. “Khao soi is becoming more popular on Thai menus [in America] but this spot is legit,” says Ying. “The spices give the dish so many layers of flavor that eating it feels like you’re smack in Thailand on the beach.”
Dale Talde
Dale Talde, chef and cookbook author, NJ
Chicago-born Talde took the flavors of his Filipino immigrant parents and introduced them to New York City when he opened the much-lauded but now shuttered TALDE in Brooklyn in 2012. He’s made appearances on Top Chef and Chopped among other culinary TV shows, and has also debuted restaurants in Miami, Jersey City, and Manhattan, including Rice and Gold NYC. His first cookbook, titled Asian American, came out in 2015.
Mama Fina’s, Elmwood Park, NJ
Talde's go-to spots:
When Talde is missing family, he heads for Mama Fina’s, a no-frills Filipino restaurant in Elmwood Park, New Jersey. “It reminds me of home,” says Talde, who cooked alongside his mom while growing up in Chicago. He orders the house special, sisig, composed of chopped pork, milkfish, chicken, chilis, onions and garlic, served sizzling on a cast iron plate. “Drop an egg and chili garlic vinegar on top and it’s lights-out good,” says Talde. The chef also likes to order the bulalo soup, beef shin and marrow broth seasoned with fish sauce, which is perfect after a night of drinking, according to Talde. “Do not miss their turon plantains, wrapped in spring roll wrappers encased in a shatteringly crispy coat of sugar,” he says. “Make sure to order these early, because as soon as they are made, they sell out."
Brian Saito, Sous Chef, o.d.o by ODO, NY
Saito, who was born in Orange County, California to Japanese parents, is the sous chef at the Michelin-starred o.d.o., a traditional kaiseki restaurant focusing on exclusively local ingredients headed up by Hiroki Odo, former head chef of the Michelin-starred Kajitsu restaurant in New York City. Saito has worked at several Japanese restaurants in New York City, including as an apprentice under Tokyo-born chef Kunihide Nakajima of New York’s Nakaji.
New Wonjo Koreatown
Saito's go-to spots:
When it comes to Asian-inspired dishes Saito obsesses over, ”I can really only think of one thing, and that’s budae-jjigae,” says the California native, referring to a spicy Korean stew often made with sausage, kimchi, baked beans, and gochujang sauce. “It’s just a perfect comfort food when it’s cold during the winter.” Saito and his friends like to go to Wonjo in New York City’s Koreatown to eat the dish together. “In my younger years, it would be a ritual with my coworkers to go have budae-jjigae after a night of drinking or a long service at work,” he says. “It’s just kind of been a staple for us.”
Emshika Alberini
Emshika Alberini, chef/owner, Chiang Thai Cafe, NH
Born in Bangkok, Alberini arrived in the United States in 2000 to study organizational management, but soon after getting her master’s degree, the chef-entrepreneur pivoted to open Chang Thai Cafe in her husband’s hometown of Littleton, New Hampshire, where she focuses on contemporary Thai cuisine. She recently launched a ready-to-drink nitro Thai tea and coffee made with natural ingredients that can be found in a growing number of states across the U.S.
Alberini's go-to spots:
One of Alberini’s favorite Thai meals within the U.S. is the khao man gai, or chicken and rice, at Nong’s in Portland, Oregon. “I usually eat it for breakfast when I'm in Thailand, but this dish is something that you can eat for any meal of the day,” says Alberini. “It pairs well with a clear soup to soothe the palette.” For traditional Thai food in New York City, she goes to Wondee Siam in Hell’s Kitchen and recommends the Kang Tai Pla, a rich southern curry dish made with fermented fish, and the fluffy Thai Omelette, a dish made with eggs and fish sauce that’s harder to find in America. “When I'm lucky enough to eat at Wondee Siam, it makes me feel at home when I taste the authentic flavors,” says Alberini. “Don't forget to order their Thai coffee, too!”
Salil Mehta
Salil Mehta, chef LAUT, NY
The New Delhi, India-born Mehta is the visionary behind LAUT in Union Square—one of the first Malaysian restaurants in New York City to receive a Michelin Star—and LAUT Singapura in nearby Gramercy. Fascinated by the flavors of Southeast Asia, Mehta endeavors to highlight underrepresented cuisines with each new project he launches.
Getty Images
Mehta's go-to spots:
When Mehta is craving food from his home region, he heads to Jackson Heights, famous for its Little India and its wide selection of South Asian restaurants. “Kababish is a Pakistani/Indian/Bangladeshi takeout restaurant in Jackson Heights–they use fresh halal meat in all their dishes and it’s all highly affordable,” he said. “You can have an amazing meal under $10, including the spicy, melt-in-your mouth kabab in a fresh cooked paratha.” Mehta’s go-to meal is the kabab roll—tender, naan bread-wrapped chicken kabab meat with salad and raita.
Nikkie Rodriguez
Nikkie Rodriguez, pastry sous chef, Compass Rose/La Bodega Bakery, Washington D.C.
Rodriguez fell in love with pastry as a kid baking cookies with her cousins while growing up in Manila, Philippines. In 2017, the rising-star pastry chef moved to Washington D.C. and met Iron Gate pastry chef Paola Velez. In 2020, she joined Velez once again as Pastry Sous Chef at the celebrated Compass Rose restaurant’s La Bodega Bakery, where she can fully indulge in her love of Filipino-inspired desserts including creamy buko pandan, made with green pandan leaves and young coconut flesh.
Peking Gourmet Inn, Falls Church Virginia
Rodriguez's go-to spots:
For Filipino barbecue and the best buko pandan in the area, Rodriguez heads to Luming’s in Fort Washington, Maryland. “I’m a Filipina native and this location is the most authentic restaurant I’ve experienced since living in the U.S.—and I’ve tried a lot of Filipino establishments,” says Rodriguez. For Peking Duck, she heads to Peking Gourmet in Falls Church, Virginia. “It brings back memories of an old Chinese restaurant back in my neighborhood in the Philippines,” she said. “The crispy skin and rich flavor are rooted in tradition.” For a sweet treat, she goes to Tiger Sugar in Baltimore, Maryland for brown sugar milk tea with boba. “Tiger Sugar has achieved a perfect balance of sweetness,” she said. “From D.C. it’s a bit of a hike, but it’s totally worth the trip.”
Sheldon Simeon
Sheldon Simeon, chef and author, Cook Real Hawai’i, Maui
Born and raised in the town of Hilo on the Island of Hawai’i, the James Beard Award nominee competed in two seasons of Bravo’s Top Chef and in 2016 opened his first Maui restaurant, Tin Roof, a casual lunch spot serving island classics like Mochiko Chicken. In 2018 he opened Lineage, his first full-service restaurant focusing on traditional Hawaiian flavors, in nearby Wailea. March saw the debut of his first cookbook, Cook Real Hawai’i.
Getty Images (L), Saimin Palace, Honolulu (R)
Simeon's go-to spots:
When Simeon wants to tap into uniquely Hawaiian flavors, he heads to Palace Saimin, located in the Kalihi neighborhood of Honolulu, Oahu. “This humble noodle dish is unique to Hawaii,” says Simeon. “A childhood favorite for many locals, its taste, aroma, and nostalgia stirs up memories of simpler times.” Saimin, derived from the Chinese words sai (thin) and min (noodle), is made with wheat egg noodles and is said to have originated in the 1800’s, when plantation workers from different cultural backgrounds shared ingredients over their lunch break, resulting in a multicultural mashup of influences from dishes like Japanese ramen and Vietnamese pho. “Be sure to add wonton and beef sticks,” he said.
Jennifer Flowers is a writer and editor based in Seattle and New York City. Her work has appeared in AFAR Media, the Wall Street Journal, Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Bloomberg, and the Sunday Times Travel Magazine.