Miami is a city that never forgets how to captivate. More than five years had passed since my last visit, and it remains unchanged in its energy yet layered with new secrets to uncover. In the heart of South Beach, where neon lights and techno music pulse in time with the ocean’s rhythm, The Pelican Hotel stood out as a beacon of whimsy. This Ocean Drive icon just celebrated its 30th anniversary, unveiling a meticulous restoration that pays homage to its Art Deco roots.

This is a city of perpetual dualities, where history meets reinvention, and downtime gives way to unrelenting activity. At The Pelican, this spirit is everywhere. Conceived by Renzo Rosso, the visionary behind Diesel and a creative force behind Maison Margiela, Marni, and more, the hotel is a living narrative. Each room is its own story: a kaleidoscope of retro charm, modern indulgence, and Miami’s unmistakable flair. My ocean-view suite felt like stepping into a time capsule where the ‘70s lives on in bold patterns and an unapologetic playful attitude.

The Welcome

At 4pm each day at The Pelican, guests are treated to a complimentary cocktail. I ordered a signature hurricane glass brimming with vodka, cranberry juice, and Prosecco as I awaited sunset, when the sun dips and Ocean Drive comes alive. A premium seat for people watching is during dinner at The Pelican Café -- also an event to savor. Seated on the patio, I met up with a friend and we dined as Miami began to sparkle with vintage glamour and cosmopolitan energy.

The café, under the culinary direction of Sicilian Chef Gioacchino “Gio” Sofia, offers a menu rooted in his Messina heritage and reimagined with local flavors. A tuna tartare atop creamy avocado and a hint of green pepper was a revelation. The seared octopus, served family-style with roasted vegetables, brought the warmth of the Mediterranean to our plates. Oysters Rockefeller and house-made tagliatelle twirled with a delicate Bolognese sauce followed, each dish showcasing Chef Gio’s artistry. Dessert arrived as a perfectly crisp cannoli paired with a snifter of limoncello— a sweet end to a magical evening.

Exploring Miami

Mornings at The Pelican began with a view from my window, where the volleyball courts across Ocean Drive were bustling with players from morning to sunset. Beyond the courts, the vast ocean prompted a deep breath and the promise of time in the sun. First stop: the Pelican Café, for an order of Cuban coffee that mingles so well with the scent of salt air.

The beach lured me to spend some time sunning on lounge chairs that are part of the hotel’s amenities. But first, a walk past Muscle Beach and along the promenade burned off breakfast calories. Walking was only one option to get around: rollerbladers and bicyclists who rent Blue Bikes, and motorized scooters keep the streets and walking/biking paths busy day and night along the ocean.

Globalization is at every turn when you walk along Ocean Drive. Restaurants along the row represent Mexico, Cuba, Italy, and Colombia, and then there’s the Palace Café, where drag queen shows reign supreme among a packed crowd that spills into the sidewalk and street as passersby gawk at each performance.

Post-breakfast on my second day, a leisurely breakfast on the patio was the perfect prelude to an Art Deco walking tour, where our guide Jennifer unraveled the city’s layered history with charisma and insight.

Miami’s Art Deco district is a shimmering ode to resilience, a reminder that beauty can flourish in the wake of hardship. From the Norris Theatre’s intricate window grill (pictured above) to the iconic Victor Hotel, we traced the evolution of Miami Beach from a military hub during World War II to the hedonistic playground of the ‘80s and its subsequent rebirth as a fashion and music mecca.

According to Jennifer, the Roaring ‘20s hats were an integral part of Art Deco design, and we learned that after the Pearl Harbor attack, 85 percent of residents on Miami Beach were military; the hotels were barracks. Post WWII, the Jewish population came to Miami to heal; in fact, in 1978, Jennifer explained this was 80 percent of the population. And then came the Baby Boomers and the ‘80s, when three quarters of recreational cocaine was distributed out of Miami, and when Fidel Castro told his people they could leave the island, 125,000 came to Miami to start over. We stopped for a look at the Victor Hotel where the floors were once shined with goat’s milk. It took until the ‘90s before Miami rebranded yet again, this time with music and fashion.

A fashion designer who left Italy for Cuba but stopped in Miami and stayed… is none other than Gianni Versace. This visionary fell in love with Miami’s allure and has a story forever entwined with the iconic Casa Casuarina, also known as the Versace Mansion. In 1992, Versace invested about $2 million in this Ocean Avenue treasure and poured another ~$30 million into its breathtaking transformation. Though his life was tragically cut short on its marble steps, his legacy endures in every opulent detail. After years of dormancy, the property now serves as a luxurious restaurant, a must-visit destination where every corner dazzles with intricate design. From the dining room, the mosaic-tiled pool takes center stage, a shimmering masterpiece surrounded by architectural splendor. Complementing the visual feast is a menu that indulges the senses, perfectly paired with an Aperol spritz or a flute of Ferrari Prosecco, making every moment here unforgettable.

More Gastronomic Adventures

The culinary scene in Miami is as eclectic as its culture. Mona Lisa, a newly opened hotspot tucked along Washington Avenue, blends Asian and Mediterranean influences, courtesy of Chef Benjamin Goldman. This culinary jewel is already making waves as a trendy food scene where its patrons flock to see and be seen.

An unforgettable dining experience begins once its doors open at 8pm, and it effortlessly evolves into a lively nightlife hotspot as the night progresses. Chef Benjamin Goldman’s menu is a masterpiece, where creativity and sustainability converge in every dish. Seated at a Verde Alpi marble table, highlights included the luxurious A5 Grade Wagyu from Japan, but first -- a cubed and layered potato crisp topped with caviar and gold flakes, razor clams delicately baked with garlic butter, panko, and shimeji mushrooms (pictured above) paired with a glass of Chablis Premier Cru, of course. Wagyu slices and mushrooms, fish, and greens, and a notable matcha chocolate and gold flecked dessert reign supreme for both presentation and taste.

Casa Matilda, a female-owned Mexican steakhouse in the South of Fifth neighborhood, has been open for a year now, and its cocktail list is specialty unplugged. I sipped on an Adult Carajillo: espresso café, Lobos Joven tequila, Licor 43, and Frangelico mixed to perfection. Come hungry. The mushroom truffle risotto is filling, and you will want to indulge. The filet mignon is topped with a mild pepita sauce and served with a full twig of rosemary the server torches directly on your plate as you watch a searing flame for about 30 seconds of entertainment. A Yucatán Style Mexican Ceviche is served in a coconut half.

Miami’s Magic

Time in Miami is not measured in hours but in moments: the thrill of rollerbladers weaving through Ocean Drive’s bustling paths, the energy of drag queen shows spilling into the street, the golden hues of a sunset mirrored on the Atlantic. Each experience is layered, unexpected, and unforgettable.

As I lounged on the beach, I made plans for my next visit. Little Havana’s rhythm, Lincoln Road’s charm, and the promise of a cocktail at Nikki Beach awaited.

Miami is not just a destination— it is an invitation. It seduces you with its contrasts and surprises you with its depth. And The Pelican Hotel? It is a keeper of stories, a place where past and present collide in a celebration of all that makes Miami magic.

Charlene Peters is a travel writer and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."