The World's Most Wanted Pinot Noir

A look at the most sought-after cuvées from this regal grape reveals some new kids on the block.


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It's deeply satisfying to write about grape varieties without having to literally trot out the usual suspects – especially when we turn our attention to Pinot Noir.

Pinot is so intimately entwined with Burgundy that our Pinot Noir searches are virtually a carbon copy of general red Burgundy searches. Seriously, in the overall top 100 list of most-searched Pinots, only four are from beyond Burgundy, and the highest-placed one of those is from Champagne (the Krug Clos d'Ambonnay blanc de noirs).

The variety has, of course, travelled beyond its native region and is now made wherever winemakers fancy a challenge – because it is a notoriously finicky grape. Even within Burgundy there are noticeable differences between Pinots made in often quite nearby appellations, focusing right down to the vineyard level. Differences between negociants, merchants and retailers can also be felt – it helps to have a buyer with a nose for a good wine; 80 years ago a wine writer in the UK put it succinctly: "For one really good bottle of Burgundy sold in this country, there are 50 mediocre and a hundred bad."

However, including the Burgundy wines here would lead to a sclerotic series of articles – each would be essentially a carbon copy of the last – and it is a lot more fun to see how many changes there have been since we last undertook this exercise.

Around the world it is a sure sign that a region is getting cocky when it starts trumpeting the quality of its Pinot – competing with some of the most treasured wines on earth takes a fair amount of chutzpah, but there is no shortage of places willing to have a go.

While it is grown in a wide variety of (often unsuitable) places, it is only considered to be "noteworthy" by the powers that be (which obviously excludes a fair chunk of the French, or at least that large segment of its wine population who cannot believe anyone outside France can make a wine as well as someone inside France) in a few regions – Oregon, parts of California and New Zealand, particularly.

And you'll notice as you read through the list that it is precisely those regions that are represented, which is pleasing, as it confirms almost exactly both the accuracy of our encyclopedia and the good taste of our users.

1. Domaine de la Cote Bloom's Field Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills This wasn't even on the corresponding list last year, which shows how quickly it has become popular. Made by rockstar winemaker Raj Parr, this wine is encouragingly non-Burgundian in price, averaging out at $75, while the critics have given it an aggregated score of 90.

2. Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, Martinborough This classic New Zealand Pinot is one of that country's most consistently excellent wines. Grown on old vines in the tiny North Island region of Martinborough, this was in eighth place last year, but a surge in interest since Christmas has seen it rocket up the charts. The average price of $58 for a 93-point wine is attractive too.

3. Marcassin Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast The personal label of renowned winemaker Helen Turley, Marcassin is made in small volumes and mostly sold via mailing list. That's reflected in the $308 average price tag, but this wine really hits the spot with the critics, holding an aggregate score of 94, buoyed up by a couple of 97-point scores from the Wine Advocate.

4. Meiomi Pinot Noir, California Something of a phenomenon, Meiomi was a big name by the time Constellation bought it and it has only increased its footprint both on shelves and in the consumer's mind. Ubiquitous just about covers it and, while it sometimes gets a sniffy reaction from the snobs, it has an aggregated score of 88 and an average price tag of $20. What's not to like?

5. Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills This was the top wine on last year's list, but it finds itself mid-table this year. Named for the fogs that roll in across Santa Barbara County from the Pacific, this wine has an aggregated critic score of 91 and an average price of $107.

6. Weingut Daniel & Marta Gantenbein Pinot Noir, Graubunden Made in a tiny (15 acre) vineyard in Switzerland, this is the most sought-after Swiss wine on Wine-Searcher, by some distance. Hard to find, but well worth the effort, this 91-point wine has an average price of $148, which isn't crazy considering its rarity.

7. Sea Smoke Ten Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills The sister of the Southing above, this wine is named for the 10 clones of Pinot that go into it. It's a little bit bigger than its sibling, in flavor, score (92-point aggregate) and price – it costs an average of $128.

8. Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Oregon rocks onto the list with this classic, a well-respected wine and one that is consistently popular. It's Domaine Serene's flagship wine and carries an aggregate score of 91 points; however, it doesn't come at flagship prices, averaging $76.

9. Colene Clemens Dopp Creek Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley One thing Pinot Noir rarely offers is value, given its troublesome nature, so it's a welcome surprise to find a wine like this on the list. Weighing in at a paltry average price of $29 (for an Oregon Pinot!), it also comes with an aggregated critic score of 89.

10. Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands Named after one of the co-founders of Caymus Vineyards, this is from one of the highest vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Carrying an aggregated score of 91, it has a very attractive average price for a single-vineyard Californian wine – $51.

Image © Domaine de la Cote: the Sta. Rita Hills AVA's coastal proximity makes it ideal for Pinot Noir