How to explore Athens during a layover
In between flights, ferries, and cruises, where to stay, eat, and explore
Given its standing as the capital and largest city of Greece, it’s no surprise Athens has become a staple stop for travelers, especially with an airport that serves as an international hub. As one of the world's oldest cities, its history spans roughly 3,400 years, presenting endless options for awe-invoking archeological sightseeing. For anyone staying a few days – or even 24 hours before catching a ferry to one of the islands or embarking on an island-hopping cruise, here are some suggestions on where to stay, what to do, and where to eat in between flights, ferries, or cruises.
It’s apparent upon arrival at the recently opened Moxy Hotel that its edgy, trendy design caters to hipsters who want to play in this emerging downtown location in the city. The experience begins in the alleyway of this pet-friendly and affordable Marriott property, with two larger than life Keith Haring-esque epoxy bull dogs that guard the entrance – one black and one red – an artistic tribute to an historical Athenian pottery technique of contrast.
Check-in at the bar is an ingenious touch, and easy to order a cocktail while you wait for your room key. Breakfast serves an amazing Kagianas Egg dish (scrambled eggs with tomatoes, feta cheese, and EVOO); dinner is also served at the bar. Just steps across the way, a view of the city Plaza and its Bellagio-like fountain may be admired in a large meeting space that serves as an additional lounge area. And inside the rooms, the design is retro groovy with a bit of interactive art on the inaccessible balcony where shutters open, close, and light with the press of a button. Looking in from the outside, these shutters look like sails of a ship.
Step outside and you’re at the foot of the Metro stop and a row of take-out eateries that provide the best spinach cheese pies, Greek cookies galore, and almond bagels. Across the Plaza are Gray Line buses to get-on or get-off at more than 40 stops. This is the best and most affordable way (€20) to acclimate yourself in a city with a population of 4 million.
On the bus, you can use earbuds to listen in your preferred language to get a sense of what you’re seeing, whether it’s the Parthenon -- the architect genius of achievements built in 5th century BC, or a stop in the Plaka (translates as old city), where you can walk alongside views of the Acropolis.
The Royal Olympic Hotel is the place to stay for the best view of the Acropolis from the rooftop restaurant where guests prefer an order of leg of lamb and Greek wine. The rooms are modest but the view from the restaurant is worth the stay.
A 40-minute drive from the Royal Olympic to Stamata will bring travelers to a pre-scheduled tour and winetasting at Kokotos Estate. The entrance is off a beaten path where, in early September, a walk past a bush of rosehips in bloom leads to the cellar where merlot harvest is in-process. The multi-sensory experience at this winery begins with an introduction to co-proprietor Anne Kokotos, followed by a walk through the vineyards, and then a peek in the cellar room where grapes are sorted and de-stemmed. Following the tour, all guests take a seat inside the winery at the large weathered wooden dining table for a proper tasting of several estate wines with cheese pairings.
In 1979, this winery began production with one single drought-resistant and highly aromatic varietal, Savvatiano. This white wine grape is commonly used to make Retsina, an ancient product of winemaking in an amphora sealed with Aleppo pine resin. Not many people choose to drink this today, so the grape is now used mainly in traditional winemaking for a nice, dry white wine. A year later, Anne and her husband George decided to plant more grapes, including Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, grapes on this highest elevation overlook the foothills of Penteli where the 490 BC Battle of Marathon - the first Persian invasion of Greece - took place. Even more grapes are grown here that include Malagouzia, Assyrtiko, and Gewürztraminer.
Wines worthy of a mention include the 2017 Savvatiano, a dry white wine fermented in Acacia wood. It offers an amazing balance and is quite refreshing and bold on a hot, dry day -- best paired with sheep cheese. The 2021 Malagouzia presents a lovely peach aroma and tastes of perfection on the palate. The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (with 10 percent Merlot blended in) was selected one the list of 50 Great Greek Wines. This wine was aged for two years in French oak barrels and is lovely and approachable.
Back to the city, Monastiraki is one of Europe's oldest areas in the Flea Market District, where lunch at Café Avissinia begins with a delicious plate of Soutzoukakia. This is a plate of meatballs shaped more like meat thumbs - in a light Greek tomato sauce far removed from anything Italian – and served with basmati rice. As a charming, family-run restaurant with flea market artwork as its décor, it’s the view of the Acropolis that draws a crowd. Post-lunch, a quick walk to tour the Agora, once a thriving marketplace, offers a break from hordes of tourists (2 million each year!) who opt to climb the hill to view the UNESCO World Site of the Acropolis.
Temple of Hephaestus. All photos by Charlene Peters
View from the Acropolis Loft at 18 Micon Street hotel.
Just keep walking and you’ll end up strolling through an upscale shopping arcade and uphill to Kolonaki to Papadakis Restaurant where the menu offerings of Chef Argiro Barbarigou will wow your palate. Her prepared and local-sourced Greek dishes are mostly seafood, so be ready for octopus and squid, grouper, and seabass. But be sure to try the chickpea stew before you depart.
Charlene Peters is a travel writer living in the Boston area. She can be reached by email: SipTripper@gmail.com