In the mid-1800s, three shipwrecks were known to have occurred in the Baltic Sea. About a decade ago, several wine bottles were found in one of the sunken ships off Finland, and although they had no label, the corks revealed at least one brand, Veuve Clicquot, among others. Upon testing, it was determined most of the bottles had 140 grams of dosage. So sweet! But back then, that’s what wine was… sweet. Regardless of the wines' sugar levels and age, each bottle sold in auction for 40,000 to 100,000 euros.

It’s no myth. A House of Champagne really does exist, and it’s in one of the most prestigious wine regions of the world. In fact, in 2015, UNESCO recognized Champagne for its outstanding heritage, joining about 30 other wine destinations such as Rioja, Walla Walla, and McLaren Vale. The result of Champagne’s World Heritage Site declaration is an uptick in attracting more investors to this destination conveniently located 90 miles east of Paris, France (a 45-minute train ride).

WHY CHAMPAGNE?

Historically, Champagne has experienced increased sales volume following a crisis; hence, today’s rise in sales is directly related to the Covid-19 pandemic... purely a splurge to emit a psychological uplift. Outside of a crisis, the television and film industry continues to promote the opening and sipping of bubbly as a sexy experience, especially when trying to woo a love interest. In the classic movie The Seven Year Itch, Marilyn Monroe’s character suggests a pairing that has since become popular today:

While it may indeed sound crazy, this delicious pairing (outside of dunking) is worth a try!

What makes Champagne so attractive to travelers and wine afficionados is its authenticity and approachability, and its strong presence in Hollywood films.

To put the region in perspective, there are 319 villages and the same number of AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) districts within 5 French regions defined in 1927 as the Aube (Côte des Bar), Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and the Vallée de la Marne.

Fun fact: If you own 2 hectares (2.47 acres) of vineyards, you can make a living in Champagne along with the 16,200 other grower producers.

Last year, 326 million bottles of Champagne were shipped globally, which proves what they’re producing is more than satisfying the market. But with climate change, growers here have had to pivot. With sustainability in mind, the wine region as a whole is nearly extinct in its use of pesticides; there are 932 biodynamic producers to date.

THERE’S A NEW GRAPE IN TOWN

Climate change affects everyone and everything, including the ability of the three main grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier (the latter are the only two red grapes in the region) to produce the same excelled bubbles year after year. What you may not know is that there are actually 7 grapes that have been historically used to produce Champagne. Petit Meslier, Arbane, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris make up a very small percentage used today. But to address climate change, a hybrid grape has been approved to add as one of the main grapes used to make Champagne. This grape variety is called Voltis B (a crossbreeding of Villaris and a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia) and is fungus resistant. It shows a lime fruit profile with spiciness, yet no bitterness. It offers more acidity and roundness, but we won’t know how it performs for another decade.

“Voltis is one of the answers to the important question of coexistence between residents and producers. Above all, it is about developing practices and consumption in the spirit of sustainability,” explained Maxime Toubart, co-president of the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (Civc) and president of the Syndicat Général des Vignerons (SGV).

In a toast to the abundance of exquisite Champagne houses in the La Champagne region of France, here are 7 must-stops and/or sips:

#1 – Pressoria in Aÿ offers a sensorial journey inside a virtual Champagne flute. Holograms of vines surround, and on the wall a depiction of Champagne’s geologic history includes the Jurassic period – dinosaurs included. A favorite tasting at this exhibition house is an Abelé 1757 Brut.

#2 – Champagne Deutz in Aÿ is a surreal experience during a walk through the estate and cellar. Its German influence doesn’t explain the bamboo room with a caged, stuffed cockatiel, however. To add to the bizarre visit, a talk on sexual confusion viticulture techniques leads to an explanation of how the Champagne will turnout. “The wine will decide,” said the tour guide, who also explained the rosé and blanc are always non-vintage because it’s easier to keep reserve wines than to age blends, and an NV offers more complexities, such as tertiary notes and more nice surprises. The rosé is 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay and pairs perfectly with scallops. NOTE: The Champagne Deutz house is not open to the public, but online orders are welcomed.

#3 – Champagne Henriet-Bazin in Villers-Marmery is a family estate run by four generations who believe “nature is the boss.” By the third generation, they became sustainable, and the 4th generation went a few steps higher. Today, the house has reached 100% natural viticulture status and plans to officially receive its biodynamic certification this year, which explains the spray of essential oils (horsetail) to protect the plants from too much rain.

The husband of winemaker, Marie-Noëlle, commends her ability to create wines of “elegance, complexity, and joyfulness,” perhaps due to the grapes fermenting and aging in porcelain. Marie-Noëlle takes her lead from nature in the expression of the grapes as “freshness is a feeling,” and she uses less dosage than most in this wine region. Although sited in Pinot Noir territory, the morning sun from the east is best for growing Chardonnay. The Champagne at Henriet-Bazin is independently made, avoiding trends. It tastes fresh, with great acidity, is fruit forward, and most especially delicious. You can really taste the excelled terroir and understand the respect given to the process.

#4 – Perrier-Jouёt in Epernay is a Belle Epoque Champagne house guests will want to re-visit time and time again. Art Nouveau is the theme in the seated garden area with anemones strategically placed in its design. In this garden, guests may taste a floral and vivacious 100% Chardonnay 2012 Blanc de Blanc, and/or a 2013 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, and 5% Meunier from the Valle de Mar. It’s all about texture and Grand Cru terroir here, and this house holds second prestige in volume to Dom Perignon. The florality and texture add to the grand experience paired with the house’s history that began in 1811 when Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose-Adelaide Jouёt founded the brand and combined their love of nature, passion for Champagne, and entrepreneurial vision to success. Pierre and his son, Charles, were botanists and horticulturists, and the design of this house reflects their passion.

#5 – Champagne Dumont is sited up high in Aube, close to Burgundy and with the same soil structure as Chablis. This is where beech and oak trees thrive, and where Lagotto Romagnolo dogs sniff out truffles, considered the spirit of the land. The Jurassic rock of the land is the place to grow mostly Pinot Noir and a small percentage of Chardonnay. Lunch in the vineyard is a premier experience, especially when it’s served on a table that’s been repurposed from an old wooden door. Lunch begins with truffle-buttered toast with baked Gruyere, courtesy of Dumont’s mother. Worth noting is this region is one of 8 valleys in the Cote de Bar involved in an annual Fête the end of July, where approximately 10,000 people party with flute-filled bubbly.

#6 – Champagne Drappier is worthy of a repeat visit, if only to sit inside the Drappier House living room while sipping on a mineral-driven, biscuit flavored blanc de blanc with aromas of peony. Since 2017, the house has been part of an overall zero carbon footprint approach, using a photovoltaic cellar (solar energy), electric vehicles, and sustainable packaging. The 60 hectares of hilly vineyards owned exclusively by the Drappier family are gilded in limestone predominantly in the village of Urville.

#7 – Champagne Charles Heidsieck celebrates 200 years this year, and as part of this special bicentennial year, the reintroduction of the label, Champagne Charlie (featured photo), is on the market with its 50% reserve full-bodied wine – so full-bodied you almost feel you’re eating it ($700/bottle). Worth noting is the ’96 reserve is the oldest used today. The blanc de blanc here dates back to 1906, while the first vintage of blanc de meunier dates 1983. What’s old is new again and what’s new gets better with age. A favorite of this label is a NV Rosé Reserve (2018 NV base and 2022 year of the bottle). The grapes were harvested from the last village before you pass Burgundy. Oh, and the Brut Reserve is freakin’ amazing, as is the 2008 (supreme year for pinot noir) Vintage Rosé Millesime, which can be cellared for 15 years. Cost per bottle is $170. The 2007 Blanc de Millenaires emits honeysuckle notes and may even be worthy of its price tag of $269 a bottle on Wine.com.

WHERE TO STAY AND DINE

Novotel Suites Reims Centre hotel is an Accor property with soundproofed rooms and teakwood looking planks that look and feel like you’re staying on a luxury yacht. The shower room is a step up and includes a tub perfect for soaking sore bodies after a long day of walking and tasting. It’s located in the perfect spot, a quick walk to the train and downtown Reims (a fabulous spot for the Christmas markets!) where dinner at Le Continental Restaurant (also a hotel) awaits. The panoramic view of the promenade is sure to jumpstart the excitement of exploring La Champagne. The Chef’s Menu costs 31 euros and includes a selection of a starter (suggestions - cauliflower and vanilla velouté) a main course (Mackerel filets, Jerusalem artichoke mousseline, wasabi sour cream) and dessert (pistachio crème brulee). If you’re not hungry for dinner, enjoy a seat in the tearoom, or a glass of Champagne or cocktail in the lounge.

Close to the Notre Dame Cathedral in Reims is Au Piano des Chefs, the place for a culinary workshop, a.k.a. cooking class with Eric Geoffroy. Another taste of Abelé with its lemon meringue palate pairs with the gnocchi recipe made with potato pulp, egg, flour, potato starch and salt.

In the Marne, before you head to Pressoria, lunch at Brasserie l’Horisium in the Losium hotel in Mutigny is worthy of a stop – and definitely a stay, especially during harvest season when you may take a seat in la mezzanine and watch the magic happen in the vineyards.

Worth noting is that this is a brand new luxury hotel with state-of-the-art rooms, eco-friendly spa (with a spa bar!) and fitness area. Its two restaurants are run by Executive Chef Antoine Madelaine (formerly at Georges Blanc, Anne Sophie Pic, at Martinez in Cannes, at Negresco in Nice, at the Four Seasons in Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, and before that in Australia, New Zealand, and Bora Bora), who salutes the establishment's eco-responsible approach to sourcing from local producers. Its menu is half vegetarian, and all the champagnes served at the table are available for sale – a choice of no less than 4,000 champagnes!

Lunch on Rue Chanzy at Du Cep à l’Assiette is where a food pairing and tasting flight of Champagne Henriet-Bazin begins with a Meunier that exhibits a minerality of limestone yet it’s creamy. A zero dosage blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is followed by a powerful, yet elegant Grand Cru Rosé.

A guided city tour of Troyes is worth taking before departing for Champignol-lez-Mondeville (a one-hour drive) to lunch in the vineyard with the family of Champagne Dumont. Tina and Lurent are perfect hosts, as is their daughter, who serves dessert.

Save the last dinner for time spent at La Brasserie Boulingrin, an experience to be savored —most likely to run late so everyone can fully immerse in the French food and Champagne sipping experience.

Visit www.champagne.fr/en for more information on planning your own trip!

Charlene Peters is a travel, food, and wine writer living in the Boston area. She can be reached by email: SipTripper@gmail.com