For years, I’d speed by Providence on my way to visit my parents in Cape Cod. But after hearing about a growing food scene, I started making pit stops en route to grab a bite to eat. With each visit I spent more and more time exploring — and I’m not alone. This capital city used to be thought of as a place that travelers skipped en route to the beaches of Rhode Island and other vacation spots along the Eastern seaboard. Now, thanks to a serious restaurant culture, a thriving arts community, and a clutch of cool boutique hotels, there’s a reason to stop and spend a few days.

“I love the creativity here. There are so many artists across the board — in the arts, music, and food,” says Jason Timothy, cofounder of Troop, a restaurant-slash-art salon in an old industrial mill in the Olneyville neighborhood. “There is no lack of talent in this city.” The trailblazing Troop is a microcosm of everything that Providence is about, showcasing art and music performances while serving an ambitious menu of international street food bites using ingredients that reflect the city’s easy access to farms and the sea.

Providence’s culinary chops are also fueled by the fact that it’s a true melting pot, with a range of cultures from Italian to Peruvian to West African. Another local culinary entrepreneur who is helping put Providence on the foodie map and celebrate its rich diversity is Julia Broome, who started Kin Southern Table + Bar. “We haven’t had a soul food restaurant in downtown Providence for years,” she says. “Our aim is to bring people together over a delicious meal and celebrate Black culture.”

This is from The WeekEnder series: local insider guides for new destinations a short drive from New York City, delivered to your inbox twice a month. Sign up here!

Also on the vanguard is The Beatrice, a buzzing new downtown boutique hotel helmed by general manager Jennifer Curtin, who grew up in the area. What she loves about Providence: “It’s unique, since it’s such a small city with a neighborhood feel — and everything is within walking distance.” Indeed, this city measures just 18.5 square miles and is divided into a number of neighborhoods, from downtown (where the Beatrice is located) to Federal Hill (home to the city’s thriving Italian community) to Olneyville (filled with converted factories), making it easy to navigate.

Great food, art, and hotels in a highly walkable city? It all adds up to a perfectly delicious weekend escape.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Editor’s Note: For the latest on Covid, visit the official Rhode Island COVID-19 information page.

The Beatrice

The 47-room boutique Beatrice property is aimed at tech-savvy travelers (think contactless concierge service, a dedicated Zoom room) and luxury seekers (Mascioni linens crafted in Milan, Dyson hair dryers). Add to that in-room Fit Kits, a rotating selection of books, a private rooftop bar, and the Cipriani-run Bellini Restaurant and you have all the ingredients for a memorable stay. Two tips from general manager Jennifer Curtin: Book one of the corner rooms, which have amazing city views. And at Bellini Restaurant, order the Tagliardi with Tartufo Nero di Norcia, which has quickly become a fan favorite.

Hotel Honorable Mentions

For history buffs: Graduate Providence - The Providence Biltmore — a one time hotspot for silent film stars — has been transformed into the Graduate, which combines modern-era amenities (a Topgolf-themed suite, a spa with an infrared sauna) with old-school charm (a glass-and-brass elevator, ornate 1922 ceilings). The Beaux-arts property celebrates its 100th anniversary this year.

For Instagrammers: The Dean Hotel - It doesn’t get hipper than this former brothel with the city’s sole karaoke lounge, a beer garden, free bikes for guests to use, and craftwork from local makers. The hotel’s North restaurant specializes in dishes made with ingredients sourced from local farmers and fishermen.

For art lovers: Dye House - Art lovers flock to the Olneyville neighborhood for its galleries, studios, and the Dye House, which takes its design inspiration from the textile mills of this area’s past.

The options for dining in Providence are endless. Here’s just a small sampling of how you can eat your way through the city.

Best breakfasts

Kitchen - Don’t let the line outside this shoebox-sized restaurant stop you. The breakfast classics (omelets, pancakes, croissant French toast) are worth the wait. Pro-tip: Bring cash, since no credit cards are accepted.

Rebelle Artisan Bagels - This bagel shop isn’t afraid to experiment with offbeat flavors and local ingredients: beer and cheese bagels, kimchi cream cheese. Currently open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Coffee break

The Nitro Bar - Nitro coffee lovers, unite. Located in a bicycle shop, this slick white cafe prides itself on locally brewed nitro blends (cold brew, chai latte).

Lunchtime

Dune Brothers - No visit to New England is complete without a stop at a quintessential seafood shack for chowder and lobster rolls — and in Providence, Dune Brothers is your place. Don’t miss the spicy-crunchy clam cakes, a local cult favorite.

East Side Pocket - In between downtown sightseeing stops, take a quick break at this no-fuss Middle Eastern joint that has been serving up falafels, gyros, and wraps to hungry college students for 25 years.

Olneyville New York System - This family-owned local institution takes hot dogs to the next level. Here, it’s called a “wiener” and it’s ordered “all the way,” loaded with mustard, meat sauce, chopped white onions, and celery salt. It’s best paired with a glass of coffee milk (trust us). In 2014, the James Beard Foundation recognized the restaurant with an America’s Classic award.

Global flavors

Bintimani West African Kitchen - Taste the flavors of Sierra Leone, from chicken stew to plantain salad to beef shish kabob.

Layali - A smattering of foods from around the world, from Moroccan chicken kabobs to shrimp tacos. Flaming cocktails add to the lively experience.

Los Andes - Don’t underestimate the low-key look of Los Andes, hidden away in an unassuming building on the outskirts of downtown. Come for the classic ceviche; stay for the Latin music and pisco sours.

Garden of Eve - A family-owned spot in the heart of Providence, Garden of Eve serves up the best of Haitain cuisine. Try the chicken wings or the fritay dinner, Haiti’s take on comfort food.

Chilangos - Jason Timothy is a fan of the cutting-edge Mexican food from Maxwell Mendoza, whose mother and uncle started this family-run restaurant and whose brother Jose runs the bar program. “I love those guys,” he says. Try the tortitas de coliflor (cauliflower patties served with tomato salsa, queso cotija, and avocado).

Casual bites

Troop - This cutting-edge restaurant pays homage to 90s hip hop culture with graffiti-covered decor and DJ sets. Local brews and craft cocktails accompany a menu of globally-inspired street food.

Camille’s on the Hill - Classic Italian dishes, a robust wine menu, and a lovely outdoor patio set the scene for a perfetto way to end a day of exploring.

Kin Southern Table + Bar - Owner Julia Broome puts a lot of heart into Southern soul food dishes (chicken and waffles, shrimp po’ boys). A standout cocktail is the Black Girl Magic, with Ciroc Peach, lemonade, and a secret magic dust. “We decided to make it Black and glittery to represent strong Black women (like myself),” says Julia.

Date night

Gracie’s - Seasonally updated five- and seven-course tasting menus usually include produce grown in the restaurant’s rooftop garden. Save room for desserts like the goat cheesecake with pistachio, rhubarb, and brown sugar ice cream.

New Rivers - Expect a true farm-to-table menu sourced from New England’s farms, dairies, fisheries, wineries, and breweries.

Persimmon - James Beard Award-nominated chef Champe Speidel lends his precision and technique to a modern American menu. He switches up the menu nightly, so you’re sure to enjoy creative and fresh dishes.

Sweets

PVDonuts - The light-and-airy buttery brioche donuts are topped with Pop-Tarts, waffles, fried chicken, bacon, and more. The menu changes monthly and also includes wheat-free and vegan varieties.

Madrid European Bakery - The smell of baked goods (ganache-filled opera cakes, éclairs, almond croissants) is almost as captivating as watching the pastry chef roll out layers of dough and butter.

Tricycle Ice Cream - At its new Providence storefront, Tricycle Ice Cream is in the business of perfecting childhood treats like push-up pops, dipped cones, and Choco Tacos. But just a warning: The menu is a mile long, so you may need to pay more than one visit.

Aleppo Sweets - Owned by a Syrian refugee who has been creating baklava since he was 16, Aleppo Sweets is inspired by the city where his craft began.

Drinks

The Industrious Spirit Company - Sample vodka, gin, and bourbon, all made from scratch at Providence’s first distillery since Prohibition. The latest launch: Ostreida, the first-ever vodka distilled with oysters.

Bayberry Beer Hall - New England beers on tap, communal tables, a massive live plant wall, and beer cheese and pretzels make this modern take on the traditional German beer garden worth a visit.

Fortnight - In search of a chill late-night spot? Fortnight, open until 1 a.m., serves a spectacular lineup of natural wines, plus offbeat snacks like cabbage and potato pakoras.

Providence punches above its weight when it comes to cultural institutions. Here are a few not to miss.

Trinity Repertory Company - Rhode Island’s acclaimed Tony Award-winning theater company has been putting on performances since 1963. Upcoming shows include Sueño (April 7-May 8, 2022) and Fairview (May 19-June 19, 2022).

Providence Performing Arts Center - With its stunningly intricate ceiling, PPAC is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Expect touring Broadway productions and other top-notch shows.

Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art - Since 1877, this college museum has been showcasing artwork across culture and time, with thousands of objects — paintings, textiles, sculpture, furniture, and more — on display.

WaterFire - This multi-sensory art installation includes a series of bonfires floating on the rivers of Providence, accompanied by live music. WaterFire kicks off its 2022 season on April 9 and goes throughout the spring and summer.

Shopping

Want to bring home a piece from Providence’s thriving creative community? Here are a few resources that showcase local artists and makers.

The Arcade Providence - Welcome to America’s oldest indoor mall, built in 1828. Today, the first floor is dedicated to small boutiques and local-food restaurants.

Providence Flea - Earmark Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for the Providence Flea, a quirky marketplace for homegrown vendors.

Craftland - Jennifer Curtin loves this shop filled with handmade gifts. “It’s right around the corner from The Beatrice and it’s really neat,” she says.