Since 1908, one landmark has anchored the Inner Harbour skyline, and this season it welcomes a steward for its storied legacy. Fairmont Empress, recently named the number one Canadian City Hotel in Travel + Leisure's 2025 and 2026 World's Best Awards, appoints Demian Fuentes as Director of Food and Beverage, an executive whose résumé reads like a world tour, from the Middle East to Europe, Asia, and Australia.

“Dubai gave me the opportunity to work in an ambitious, international dining scene where ideas move quickly, and expectations are high,” Fuentes explained. “What drew me to Victoria was the chance to bring that experience to a place with such a strong identity of its own. Fairmont Empress has a history and sense of place unlike anywhere else. I see this as an opportunity to contribute to the community while creating food and beverage experiences that feel relevant, distinctive, and rooted in the West Coast.”

Two decades leading luxury hospitality and lifestyle dining groups sit behind this appointment, spanning international expansion, financial acumen, pre-openings, and restaurant concepts, now applied to one of Canada's most recognized hotel dining programs. “The lesson I return to is that consistency is what makes hospitality feel effortless,” Fuentes reflected. “A memorable experience depends on thoughtful ideas, but also on the discipline behind them: clear communication, good preparation, quality of service, and a team that understands what it is trying to deliver.”

Mornings belong to The Bengal, the hotel's official breakfast room and one of Victoria's largest private dining rooms in the evenings. His portfolio also includes DASH, the new grab-and-go coffee shop in the south wing. The Bengal's menu leans on classic flavours for West Coast comfort, with a touch of international spice adding depth to a familiar morning ritual.

Regulars and city visitors start the day with Tea at the Empress, where more than 250,000 cups get poured every year, so central to the city that Condé Nast Traveler recently ranked this property among the top hotels in Western Canada. “Tea at the Empress has been a ritual since 1908, and it deserves much respect,” Fuentes noted. “Any evolution should be thoughtful and protect what guests come for while bringing the experience into conversation with the present. We should always be looking toward the future and how we connect with new generations, alongside preserving the ceremony and character that make it special.”

By evening, find Q at the Empress, where an art deco chandelier hangs low over a glowing raw bar counter and the Inner Harbour glitters just beyond the windows. “Tide and terroir speak to the way place shapes the table,” Fuentes offered. “The tide brings the seafood and changing seasons into focus; terroir reflects the land, the growers, and the people who produce what we serve. Together, they give Q a clear sense of belonging to Vancouver Island. The goal isn't simply to feature local products, but to create an experience where the coast and its seasons feel present.” The room reflects recent renovations across the hotel's outlets, part of the architecture, accommodations, and service behind Fairmont Empress's third consecutive MICHELIN Key, announced this week.

Settling into a National Historic Site starts with listening, says Fuentes. “I’m getting to know Fairmont Empress by listening to colleagues who understand its traditions, to guests who have returned over many years, and to the community that has made the hotel part of Victoria’s story. I’m also spending time in the spaces themselves and learning how each outlet contributes to the character of the property.” What stands out, he says, is the pride people take in this world class property. “A historic hotel has a responsibility to honour what came before while continuing to evolve. That balance will guide how we develop the food and beverage experience: protecting the character guests love and ensuring it feels memorable and relevant for today's guest.”

One appointment, several distinct experiences, and a legacy hotel entering a confident era under Demian Fuentes's steady direction. Fairmont Empress has long set the pace along this stretch of coastline, and under Fuentes, the next chapter is already on its way to being written.