The serene setting was perfected with my front row seat to gaze out at Lake Ontario as I devoured the best tomato and strawberry salad I’d ever tasted. This salad was speckled with pickled beets, goat cheese and tomatoes and strawberries on top of a bed of arugula. A drizzle of lavender and pistachio vinaigrette catapulted the flavors to nirvana. I had to pursue the recipe for this dressing, and thanks to Executive Chef Alexandra Feswick, I’m able to share it with you:

Lavender Vinaigrette

½ cup pistachio butter

¼ cup lavender syrup

2 tbsp cider vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp dried lavender

½ cup canola oil

Blend everything except the oil in a blender. Once mixed, slowly add the oil until emulsified. Will make approximately 1 liter of dressing.

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The restaurant was located down the street from where I stayed at the sister property of The Drake Devonshire, at The Drake Motor Inn, a nice, clean retro-designed motel directly across the street from a custom slaughtering house. Whenever I walked by that business with the “open” sign, my thoughts were dominated by a conglomeration of horror movies I’ve seen throughout my life.

The reason for my visit was to explore the growing wine region and up-and-coming terroir of Prince Edward County, a region formerly known for canning everything, but has since phased out in lieu of vineyards planted in raised soil, with dormant winter vines buried in the soil for protection. Fans are utilized to keep the vines healthy once unearthed in the spring for trellising. To date, there are 45 to 50 wineries in the county, to which I visited four:

#1 – Rosehall Run Vineyards (pictured, top)

In 1999, the first vineyard in the county was planted in the community of Waupoos (rabbits), and a few years later, Rosehall Run owner, Dylan Sullivan, planted vineyards in this limestone soil and a climate I’m told is akin to Burgundy. The valley floor is planted with pinot noir that receives a cross breeze from Lake Ontario. Most of his wine labels list Niagara grapes, but that would be another story of the now-popular wine region. I was here to concentrate on Prince Edward County.

I tasted the 2016 chardonnay made with grapes from Prince Edward County and immediately knew this terroir was different than the usual California and French I’m used to sipping. This had a tangy, sour grapes feel with a finish of cream that spoke to the use of malolactic fermentation.

Next, I tried a 2017 tempranillo from grapes grown in the Toy Box vineyard, named for the fun attempts Sullivan likes to make in growing his grapes. He also grows cabernet franc and shares that harvest is around Thanksgiving Day, which makes me gasp until I realize I’m in Canada. The tempranillo I taste is representative of the Spanish grape, so I’m feeling better.

And then I tasted the 2011 Stardust Brut Cuvee Blanc with Pinot Blanc, which rightfully received stellar reviews from wine critics in North America.

#2 – Casa Dea Estates Winery

The owner of Casa Dea Estates Winery, Dominique Dipietrantonio, hails from Northern Italy. The winery has an adjoining restaurant and a house available for short-term rent. The wines continued to taste of sour grapes – indicative of the cold growing region beyond the premier latitude for growing grapes of quality. An adjustment must be made in order to appreciate how these wines are crafted. I tasted a Desiderio blend of pinot noir and cabernet franc before tasting the 2015 cabernet franc reserve with its green pepper notes. Most impressive was a taste of 2017 Eva, made in the Amarone style and with lots of complexity.

#3 – Sandbanks Winery

There isn’t a wine available to taste grapes from this region. All the wines are made with Niagara grapes, so I tasted a glass of Bay of Quinte, an apple wine, as there are plenty of apple trees on property to produce this refreshing sip.

#4 – Karlo Estates

All tastings in this rustic barn-winery are paired with nibbles. My first taste of 2017 Karlo Estates Estate Chardonnay was paired with a small handful of savory toasted pumpkin seeds. The wine was a bit high in its acidity and needed some malolactic fermentation and perhaps time spent in French oak (most in this wine region use American oak).

Next, a 2017 Estate Pinot Noir brought to life that same pattern of sour grapes, but with notes of tobacco and smokiness that make this wine as good as it gets in this challenging wine region. I nibbled on pretzel crisps with this wine.

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Overall, the experience was enlightening and impressive. I was grateful to witness what winemakers outside of an ideal climate are doing with grapes today.