Arriving at the Four Seasons Hotel Madrid was like stepping into a holiday dreamscape. For one fleeting evening, it was worth every indulgence to marvel at the Christmas magic that transformed this elegant urban oasis into a stunning festive wonderland. Beyond its 200 rooms, the building’s storied past as a former bank revealed itself with imposing marble pillars and a breathtaking stained-glass ceiling— timeless remnants of an opulent legacy.

As my taxi drove me to my destination, my gaze was drawn to the entrance of Hermes, adorned with a magnificent Christmas tree. Right past Hermes is the Four Seasons entrance, where I entered a lobby that enchanted me with its breathtaking high-ceilinged design. Everywhere I turned, I couldn't help but marvel at this masterstroke of architecture that links the hotel’s levels, flooding the space with an overwhelming sense of grandeur. This soaring, open expanse elevates the merry atmosphere, where shimmering crimson ornaments dangled from above and filled to the brim in glass vases strategically placed on several tables, catching the eye and leaving every visitor spellbound. The seamless flow of space and light, paired with the stunning visual impact of the décor, creates a sense of awe that lingers long after you’ve gazed upward.

And then I entered my room. Wow. It was like entering a sanctuary of sensory indulgence, where a soft glow of ambient lighting was cast in an inviting hue across an atmosphere of serene opulence. I had little time before dinner, so a quick shower later, I headed to the on-property Michelin-guide recognized sushi restaurant, Isa.

The promise of modern Spanish gastronomy filled the sleek yet inviting space with its ambiance of contemporary design blended with traditional elements. I took a seat and readied for a culinary journey that would redefine my perception of Spanish cuisine.

At the helm of the kitchen is Madrid-born Ignacio Vara, whose chef mastery is all about creating a seamless blend of Japanese precision with Spanish flair to set the stage for a gastronomic journey beyond borders. With a distinguished career working alongside Michelin-starred chefs like David Muñoz, Martín Berasategui, and Dani García, Ignacio’s passion for exploring global culinary techniques infuses every dish with creativity and a deep respect for the ingredients.

Each dish is a reinvention of a classic dish with a daring twist, including some finishing touches by use of a torch, tableside. Served tapas style, some dishes were topped with caviar while others were presented in an elegant presentation of an adorned sushi roll. The only thing that could compete with these dishes were the cocktails, with a menu created by cocktail expert, Miguel Pérez. My first masterpiece was crystalline bliss– a Kakigori, which is a traditional Japanese shaved ice concoction piled high and crowned with a blend of roasted butter, fat wash, Grey Goose vodka, sage, yuzu sherbert, and rhubarb ice. In fact, each cocktail was an experience unto itself.

As the evening progressed, each course became a revelation. Suffice to say, Isa was more than a restaurant. It was a culinary theater where the chefs’ passion and expertise took center stage. The attentive service, the carefully curated menu, and the contemporary elegance of the space created an experience that not only celebrated the rich tapestry of Spanish gastronomy but also pushed its boundaries into uncharted, delicious territories.

Beyond satiated and jet lagged to the max, I floated back to my room to find a traditional Spanish dessert I couldn’t possibly tackle, at least until the next day. Tarta de Santiago is a sweet, almond-infused masterpiece that captures the essence of Spain’s culinary heritage. Originating from the region of Galicia, this traditional Spanish cake is made with ground almonds, sugar, eggs, and a hint of lemon zest, resulting in a moist, dense texture that melts in your mouth. Its signature feature is the intricate cross of Saint James, dusted with powdered sugar on top, symbolizing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Every bite is a harmonious balance of nutty richness and subtle sweetness, evoking the charm of its rustic origins and a taste of its simplicity.

I was ready for bed, and it took little effort to sink into the plush bedding and into a deep sleep on sheets that felt cool and silky against my skin. This was one of the best sleeps of my life, one in refined luxury and peace, and one I won’t soon forget.

The next morning, breakfast at the Dani Brasserie began with a cappuccino and a serving of Dani-style eggs benedict. This Iberian ham version was served in the same style of sophistication as every single experience at the Four Seasons Hotel Madrid-- and set the stage for a day of exploring the area.

I walked past the Museo del Jamon, the statue of Carlos III on horse, and when it was lunchtime, into the Galería Canalejas, a food hall of gastronomic adventure. It was a challenge to select a place to order— so many choices! But I chose empanadas and do not regret this choice.

After 24 unforgettable hours, I reluctantly departed Madrid, though not before spending a moment on the Four Seasons Hotel Madrid rooftop spa deck. I stood there soaking in the city below-- a city I vowed to return to, and one filled with winter magic in every square. Fingers crossed, my next visit will allow for more time to explore this captivating location at the heart of Spain.

Charlene Peters is a travel writer and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."