Enchanting Escape at Half Moon, Jamaica
Wellness perfected in paradise
A mere two-hour flight from Florida or four hours from Boston transports you to a paradise where time slows and the senses awaken, and this destination is Half Moon Jamaica on Montego Bay. Once a bustling sugarcane port, today, this Caribbean island is renowned for its rum and world-famous Blue Mountain Coffee, a legacy that began with the 1728 importation of Hispaniola coffee beans.
Touching down in Montego Bay, it was a 15-minute, seven-mile journey from the airport to the five-star haven, Half Moon, which is a world unto itself, spanning 400 acres of tropical landscape, its name a tribute to the crescent-shaped beach that has lured dignitaries and celebrities for decades. Originally founded in 1954 as a beach colony, the resort remains largely owned by the Steuart Investment Company, the same family that first envisioned its charm and grandeur. Though steeped in history, Half Moon seamlessly marries tradition with modern elegance.
From the moment I stepped into the Great House at Eclipse, which is Half Moon’s newest addition and my sanctuary for the next five days, I felt an irresistible urge to never leave. My personal butler, Elian, guided me through the open-air lobby, where the Caribbean Sea framed the view, and up to my Ocean Room suite. The space unfolded like a dream: a welcoming pantry and second bathroom, a sun-drenched living and dining area leading to doors that opened to an L-shaped private balcony furnished with rocking chairs, two dining tables, and an outdoor bed draped in oversized pillows. It was here, lulled by the rustling palms and the hypnotic blue-green sea, that I would spend half my time. A walk-in closet and a sprawling bathroom, complete with a deep soaking tub and artisanal salt scrub filled cloth, promised pure indulgence.
View my Facebook video of my entrance to this suite.
Delmare Restaurant at Half Moon, Jamaica. Photos by Charlene Peters
A bottle of Amarone set the tone for an exquisite meal, including a sampling of two pasta dishes. The first, agnolotti filled with toasted almonds, tomatoes, and caciocavallo cheese, each bite a harmony of nutty richness and creamy indulgence. The second, a bold cocoa pappardelle paired with tender Caribbean lobster and decadent black truffle, offered a striking interplay of earthy and oceanic flavors. Crisp asparagus lent a bright counterpoint, cutting through the dish’s luxurious depth.
At Half Moon, luxury whispers rather than shouts. Accommodations range from intimate rooms to grand villas, each designed to blend harmoniously with nature. Mornings on my balcony began with freshly brewed Jamaican coffee and a bowl of chia seed coconut pudding, topped with shredded coconut, halved kumquats, and strawberries, and my added indulgence of a quinoa-pecan-cranberry muffin.
Fern Tree Spa, a sanctuary of serenity, was my next stop. Here, expert therapists wield a masterful blend of ancient techniques and modern practices, using locally sourced oils to enhance relaxation. Guests can partake in seaside yoga, melt into a massage, or simply soak in the spa’s private pool, surrounded by lush gardens. But Half Moon isn’t just for unwinding — it’s for adventure, too. Horseback riding along the shore, snorkeling, scuba diving, and sailing excursions await, while the championship golf course, designed by the legendary Robert Trent Jones Sr., tempts those seeking a different kind of thrill.
The following morning, after another nourishing chia pudding breakfast, I embarked on a farm-to-table ATV tour through Half Moon’s own farmland. Sustainability is at the heart of this resort’s ethos, with on-site beekeeping producing honey, and crops of hydroponic lettuce, and endless spaces where bananas and fiery peppers thrive, and where Taino tribes once cultivated cassava and sweet potatoes centuries ago.
A complimentary shuttle whisked me to Sugar Mill, a celebrated restaurant housed within a 17th-century working water mill. Here, Chef de Cuisine Christopher Golding reimagines classic Jamaican flavors with gourmet precision. A signature rum cocktail in hand, I indulged in a symphony of flavors: pimento-smoked marlin rolls, crab meat drizzled with tangelo vinaigrette, seared ahi tuna, and poached lobster medallions crowned with hackleback caviar. The pièce de résistance? Jerk chicken transformed into a crisp, golden spring roll, accompanied by sorrel-dark rum chutney. Wagyu beef satay and crispy pork belly followed, leading to an intermezzo of passion fruit sorbet. The final act: rum-flamed (tableside) jerk beef short ribs, perfectly paired with roasted cho cho, local spinach, and root vegetables plucked straight from the resort’s garden.
As I dined al fresco, I noticed two long tables, one filled with eight men and the other with their spouses. A short conversation with one of the women revealed they were returning guests who had made an annual pilgrimage to Half Moon for over a decade. She was a witness to the resort’s magic, its gravitational pull.
Half Moon doesn’t just offer a vacation; it offers a legacy of luxury and warmth, where guests aren’t just welcomed, but embraced like family. It’s easy to understand why visitors return repeatedly. And it’s not just the impeccable service or the sumptuous accommodations that draw them back. Perhaps, it’s the regal air of a place where even Queen Elizabeth herself once roamed. In fact, she left a gift of two grand copper lions still standing guard at the entrance, a silent promise that this paradise is, indeed, fit for royalty.
Charlene Peters is a travel writer and author of "Travel Makes Me Hungry."