Israel's settlers and the Palestinians they live among

Israel's settlements in the occupied West Bank are one of the most heated issues in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The Palestinians want the area, captured by Israel in a 1967 war, for a future state.


His people's link to the land goes back to biblical times, says the comics illustrator. His neighbor, a farmer, says the land belonged to his ancestors and has been stolen. One is an Israeli settler, the other a Palestinian living across the road.

Israel's settlements in the occupied West Bank are one of the most heated issues in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The Palestinians want the area, captured by Israel in a 1967 war, for a future state.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Ofra in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2014.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Ofra in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2014.

Israel has built more than 120 settlements there, and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, in the run-up to a Sept. 17 election, has renewed his pledge to annex them, alarming the Palestinians.

Most of the international community sees the settlements as illegal and major obstacles to Israeli-Palestinian peace, a view Israel disputes.

Netzer gestures as he speaks in his attic studio at his home.

Netzer gestures as he speaks in his attic studio at his home.

Michael Netzer moved to Ofra in 1985, about a decade after the settlement was established, one of Israel's first in the West Bank.

"It's ridiculous to say that Jews can't live here," said the 63-year-old comics artist. "The Bible is a part of it. I would ask anybody: Is it so easy to lose your connection to your ancestors and your land? Of course it isn't. For the Jewish people, that history is what made us what we are."

The red roofs of Ofra's homes are easily seen from Ein Yabrud, the Palestinian village across the road.

Musleh holds a rabbit as he spends time with his daughter and grandson in his yard.

Musleh holds a rabbit as he spends time with his daughter and grandson in his yard.

Azmi Musleh, 53, a local farmer, said Ofra sits on land his family used to cultivate.

"That land is my heart and soul. It is my family's heart and soul. We used to grow sesame, figs, olives, back to the time of my father, his father, and his father before him," Musleh said.

Coven-Wolgel goes for a walk with her daughter in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

Coven-Wolgel goes for a walk with her daughter in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

MAALE ADUMIM/AL-EIZARIYA

Israel's settler communities are hardly homogeneous. Some settlers are driven by burning ideology. Others are just looking for a cheap apartment. Some of the settlements adjacent to Israel are seen by many Israelis as just regular towns, unlike the more isolated enclaves deep inside the West Bank.

"I don't feel like a settler," said Michele Coven-Wolgel, a 60-year-old lawyer from Maale Adumim, a large settlement about 15 minutes' drive from Jerusalem. "Should we be annexed? Yes, we're a city of 41,000 people, we're a city, we have a mall."

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

Against the backdrop of desert hills, the villas of Maale Adumim provide their inhabitants with a comfortable life. Education is good and transport to the city is easy.

Farun gestures by a road in al-Eizariya town with the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim in the background.

Farun gestures by a road in al-Eizariya town with the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim in the background.

Ali Farun, 74, from the Palestinian town of al-Eizariya, about 1.5 km (one mile) from Maale Adumim has little hope of the territory ever coming under Palestinian control.

"It doesn't matter if they annex it to Jerusalem or if it remains West Bank — they control it, one way or another," said Farun.

Itai Zar and Bat-Zion Zar, 41, talk in the kitchen of their home.

Itai Zar and Bat-Zion Zar, 41, talk in the kitchen of their home.

HAVAT GILAD/SARRA

Havat Gilad, a cluster of prefab huts sprinkled across a hilltop deep in the West Bank, is home to about 45 families.

Its residents say their presence in the West Bank fulfills God's biblical promise to the Jewish people and secures Israel's safety.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Havat Gilad in the occupied West Bank as seen in 2002.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Havat Gilad in the occupied West Bank as seen in 2002.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

"This belongs to the people of Israel, there's no question about it," said Itai Zar, 43, who founded Havat Gilad in 2002 after his brother was shot dead by Palestinian militants nearby.

"Eighteen years ago we came here, one family, and today we have a flourishing community."

Turabe speaks on the phone as she works from her home in the village of Sarra.

Turabe speaks on the phone as she works from her home in the village of Sarra.

Bothena Turabe, saw the settlement's growth from her Palestinian village Sarra, across the way.

"In the night you look at them and you think there is nothing, and the next morning you look and you see there are more caravans," said Turabe, 47, a member of the village council. "This land is not yours to take — you're stealing it."

David Hamburger works in his shop in the Israeli settlement of Beitar Illit.

David Hamburger works in his shop in the Israeli settlement of Beitar Illit.

BEITAR ILLIT/WADI FUKIN

Beitar Illit is a settlement built for Israel's fast-growing ultra-Orthodox Jewish community.

According to Peace Now, an Israeli anti-settlements watchdog, Beitar Illit saw the most construction of all Israel's West Bank settlements in 2018.

Its densely built apartment blocs and Dollar stores seem a world apart from Havat Gilad's huts and dirt roads. And unlike in Zar, residents cite financial concerns for moving here.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Beitar Illit in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

Left: An aerial view shows the Israeli settlement of Beitar Illit in the occupied West Bank as seen in 1997.
Right: The same view as seen in 2018.

"We're not here for ideological reasons," said David Hamburger, 36, a Beitar Illit shop owner. "There's no way for us to buy houses anywhere else besides settlements."

With large families, seven children on average, high unemployment and poverty, the ultra-Orthodox Jews seek cheap housing that will allow their close-knit community to live together.

Mohammad Awad poses for a photo at his farm in the village of Wadi Fukin.

Mohammad Awad poses for a photo at his farm in the village of Wadi Fukin.

For Mohammad Awad, a 64-year-old farmer from Wadi Fukin, a Palestinian village next to Beitar Illit, it makes no difference why people come to live in the settlement.

"It's impossible to have peace between us because the main conflict between us is on a piece of land which they took by force, so how can I let a person steal my land, live in it and enjoy it, and live with him in peace?" he said.

A view shows Palestinian houses in the village of Ein Yabrud with the Jewish settlement of Ofra seen in the background.

A view shows Palestinian houses in the village of Ein Yabrud with the Jewish settlement of Ofra seen in the background.

An Israeli man restores an old Mustang car in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

An Israeli man restores an old Mustang car in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

An Israeli family spend time in their garden in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

An Israeli family spend time in their garden in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

An Israeli soldier and a woman chat as they walk past shops in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

An Israeli soldier and a woman chat as they walk past shops in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

A man studies at a Jewish seminary in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

A man studies at a Jewish seminary in the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

A view shows Palestinian houses in al-Eizariya village, close to the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim.

A view shows Palestinian houses in al-Eizariya village, close to the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim.

Palestinian man Ali Farun, 74, stands near a section of the Israeli barrier in al-Eizariya town close to the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim. "It doesn't matter if they annex it to Jerusalem or if it remains West Bank - they control it man, one way or another," said Farun.

Palestinian man Ali Farun, 74, stands near a section of the Israeli barrier in al-Eizariya town close to the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim. "It doesn't matter if they annex it to Jerusalem or if it remains West Bank - they control it man, one way or another," said Farun.

Israelis enjoy themselves at a public pool in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

Israelis enjoy themselves at a public pool in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

A public pool in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

A public pool in the Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim.

Palestinian children play outside their dwelling in al-Eizariya town with the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim in the background.

Palestinian children play outside their dwelling in al-Eizariya town with the Jewish settlement of Maale Adumim in the background.

A general view of the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

A general view of the Israeli settlement of Ofra.

(Reporting by Rami Ayyub, Lianne Back, Rinat Harash, Mohammed Abu Ganeyeh, Ashraf Shawish, Dedi Hayoun and Dan Williams; Photography by Amir Cohen, Nir Elias, Raneen Sawafta and Ronen Zvulun; Writing by Maayan Lubell; Editing by Jeffrey Heller and Gareth Jones)