Implementing biodynamics across a vineyard site requires significantly more attention and preparation than conventional management. Couple that with calendar-specific workdays and strict following of the lunar cycle, and even the smallest of vineyards would face significant time restraints and financial challenges. So when a sizeable estate decides to go biodynamic, is it actually achievable?

"It's not impossible – but almost," says Charles de Bournet, president and CEO of Chile's Domaines Bournet-Lapostolle, which spans 370 hectares across Chile. De Bournet highlights the precise logistics and higher number of workers needed in the vineyards to execute biodynamics across his holdings, noting that some treatments are prepared up to a year in advance. He points out the estate's two major challenges lie in the fact that biodynamic principles were created for universal application and are not site-specific, failing to promote the uniqueness of place, as well as the substantial cost of implementation. This is a challenging feat in affordable wine production. "On a small estate, it doesn't really matter, but when you have a few hundred hectares, the costs generated by biodynamic management is relevant."

Despite the difficulties, for de Bournet, the outcome is worth it. "The main, and most clear benefit is the health of the vineyard," he says, noting wines produced in harmony with the environment depict the perfect reflection of terroir. "Thanks to this holistic philosophy, the vineyard will have healthy soil and keep its natural biodiversity."

Languedoc native Gerard Bertrand owns more than 250 hectares across 14 estates in southern France and is a strict believer in biodynamics. He explains that regardless of vineyard size, every portion of a property must be treated individually. "You have to pay attention to what individual vines are doing and what multiple microclimates demand," he says. "If you don't do that, you won't achieve the advantages that biodynamic viticulture brings."

Bertrand describes that his estate has their own production workshop where preparations are created, noting that although large, constant communication, experience, and devotion to the principles make executing large-scale biodynamics possible. "We believe that utilizing biodynamics methods is the best choice to elaborate excellent wines," he says. "It is easy to be romantic about small-scale projects, but for the philosophy of biodynamics to take hold, it has to become normalized, not just among small producers, but among large ones too," he says, highlighting that large producers have the greatest presence, therefore, impact, within the market.

However, not all winemakers are convinced. In Crete, Giannis Stilianou, winemaker and owner of Stilianou Wines, explains that with larger properties, cultivating with biodynamic principles is nearly impossible, mainly because farmers are only permitted to execute vineyard work on a small amount of very specific days. "If there are many workers, it's easier, but too costly," he says. "In smaller estates, it’s much easier to cultivate biodynamically."

And for others, size isn't even the biggest issue. Stu Smith, partner and enologist at St. Helena-based Smith-Madrone Vineyards dug deep into the world of biodynamics – and still wasn't convinced. "I discovered that Rudolf Steiner [founder of biodynamics] had never been a farmer," he says, noting that Steiner went from student to agricultural theorist, without any experience in the field. Smith explains that when he'd challenge biodynamic farmers on their lack of trials and published results, their response was always that it's a belief system.

Smith highlights that although the implementation of biodynamics began to grow across larger estates in Europe, certain sizeable vintners within the Napa Valley, including Grgich Hills, actually gave up cultivating their vineyards biodynamically, after realizing the inefficiency of the practices. Smith also takes issue with what he deems to be close-mindedness amongst biodynamic farmers, from both large and small estates. "They are the only group out there that says 'our way is the only way, and everyone else is doing it wrong'. Organic and sustainable farmers don't do that, but biodynamic farmers do."

And when it comes down to it, Smith sees it all as a fast-track to making money. "There are so many wineries that need to find their place in the sun," he says, calling out the appeal of biodynamics to Millennial consumers. "In my opinion, it's a marketing ploy – do you see biodynamic carrots? Lettuce? Peaches? No. They're doing it in wine in America as a marketing concept so they sell their product easier and get a higher price for it."

Though for large-scale farmers who are passionate about biodynamics, their sentiments remain unchanged. "There is not a single reason to see a large scale as a problem in working biodynamically," says Fred Loimer, owner and winemaker of Austria's Weingut Fred Loimer. "You can manage the larger scale of farming by dividing the land into smaller parcels. It's more a question of people," he says, citing weather conditions to be one of the biggest challenges the winery faces, yet these difficulties would present themselves the same way in a large or small estate. However, for Loimer, it's the long-term benefits of healthier soils and biodiversity that make it all worth it.

In Alto Adige, Alois Lageder states that when Steiner developed his ideas on biodynamics, the size of the farm played no role – it was simply the principles that counted. "No matter how big the vineyard is, biodynamics means expanding the observational horizon with regards to soil and plant life," he says, noting that working biodynamically should also incorporate flexibility and not be an overarching dogma. "You need to observe and interpret your surroundings from different perspectives," he says, citing that his 50+ hectares receive preparations that are produced both at the estate, as well as acquired from other associations, applied both by hand and by tractor.

"The benefits of biodynamics are not related to the size of the estate," says Lageder, calling out the positive influences that the principles have had on their soil structures, plant growth, plant health, and overall quality of the wines. "Biodynamics is not a magic wand, where suddenly everything gets better," he says. "You have to deal intensively with the matter. It helps to broaden one's own horizon. You question the approach in the vineyard and in the cellar, but also yourself. This allows you to develop constantly."

For Steve Beckmen, implementing biodynamic principles across his 50 hectares simply meant having a deeper understanding of his vineyards. "I realized you can use the non-fruit days to your advantage to really understand how you can work a biodynamic vineyard on almost any day," he says, explaining how what seemed restrictive at first actually just meant using certain days to improve quality in other parts of the vineyard. "We have come to learn that we can focus on different varieties and different parts of the vineyard during the days that are technically less favorable," he says, citing that above all, consistency is key.

Beckmen notes that managing leaf/water days has proven to be the most difficult in adhering to the biodynamic calendar, but that working certain parts of a vineyard on specific days can actually be beneficial. "Large-scale biodynamics requires a firm understanding of your vineyard, which develops over time, and organization of your field crews to make sure they are in the right areas on each day." He explains that for his winery, this meant adding a second sprayer, tractor, and stirring machine to the lineup; with these additions, Beckmen is able to prepare 180 gallons of sprays and spread it across the 50 hectares in two days, which is his entire vineyard. "The calendar has furthered our understanding of the various blocks we farm, in turn making us better farmers and producing higher-quality grapes."

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