We hate to admit it, but summer is about halfway over. So for this issue of The WeekEnder, we’re taking a well-earned summer Friday, making a long weekend out of it, and heading south to Virginia Beach. This seaside resort town set between the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic ocean is having a renaissance, thanks to exciting chef-run restaurants, design-focused places to stay, and a buzzing art scene. And during a summer like this—when every vacation spot on the East Coast seems to be booked solid—it’s perfect for an easy long-weekend escape.

But first, let’s get a handle on the geography. Virginia Beach—or VB, as the locals call it—is made up of several distinct areas. You’ll probably spend most of your time in the Oceanfront (which stretches along the ocean from Rudee’s Inlet to 42nd Street) and the ViBe District (the city’s new creative zone). But if you want to venture further afield, there’s Sandbridge (a secluded beach hideaway with miles of sand dunes) and Pungo (Virginia farm country).

The first time Patrick Evans-Hylton came to Virginia Beach with his late husband—a VB native—he was dazzled by its beauty. “We were traveling over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel right about sunset, with the Atlantic ocean on one side and the Chesapeake Bay on the other. The sun was glistening, and I thought, ‘Wow, this place is so amazing,” says Patrick. That was three decades ago. These days, Patrick is known as the town’s “dean of cuisine,” runs a website called Virginia Eats + Drinks, is on the board of the Old Beach Farmers Market, and even created the locally made Four Fathering Spiced Rum.

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Besides VB’s natural attractions, the people are a big part of the appeal. “This is a unique place because it’s a military town, so people come from all over,” says Bryan Daniels, a born-and-bred local who turned his passion for home brewing into a granola bar company (more on that later). “There’s always an influx of new people and ideas and culture—a true melting pot. I can’t imagine living anywhere else.”

That fresh energy is also what inspired Katie Denton to open The Pink House, a stylish cottage for rent with an adjoining home shop, in the ViBe District. It’s part of her lifestyle company, Bees Nees, which serves up a slice of this beachy paradise with events, concierge-level services, and more. “The people in Virginia Beach are so genuine and down-to-earth,” she says. “And I was really inspired by the creativity and all the restaurants and art in the ViBe District, which is why I opened here.”

So join us for a long-weekend escape while we soak in the best of Virginia Beach’s Southern charms and modern vibes.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Editor’s Note: For the latest on Covid in Virginia, visit the state’s official COVID-19 information page.

From classic resorts to beachfront hotels to home rentals, Virginia Beach has plenty of places to stay. This is our shortlist.

For history buffs: The Historic Cavalier Hotel

Perched on a grassy hill overlooking the ocean, the Cavalier is Virginia’s most iconic hotel and has welcomed countless celebs and presidents: John F. Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Kim Kardashian, you name it. These days, the Cavalier combines old-world glam and new-world luxury with an endless list of amenities, including an indoor splash pool, a private beach club, a spa, and the first distillery in an American hotel.

For beach lovers: Marriott Virginia Beach Oceanfront

This sleek high-rise on the boardwalk is the Cavalier’s sister property, so guests get access to all the same amenities. The views here are mind-blowing: Every room at the Marriott Virginia Beach Oceanfront overlooks the ocean, and topping it off is Orion’s Roof, an Asian-fusion restaurant with a rooftop sushi bar.

For living like a local: The Pink House

Inspired by a hotel in the Dominican Republic, this three-bedroom cottage is a design lover’s dream, thanks to spaces curated by owner Katie Denton in partnership with interior designer Elizabeth Hartz. The Pink House has a plunge pool out back and a pink Moke for guests to drive around town. Katie acts like your own personal luxury concierge and can arrange dinners, parties, tours, and more.

For Instagrammers: June

Looking for a one-of-a-kind vacation experience? Check out this 14-foot teardrop trailer rental on Airbnb. The only hitch: You need to book your own campground space, but June’s owners will set everything up so that it’s ready for your arrival.

For families and fur babies: The Founders Inn and Spa

Set on 26 acres shared with Regent University, the Founders Inn and Spa is known for its genteel lakeside location, a Colonial garden that celebrates Virginia’s botanical history, a pretty pool, and an on-site dog park.

Virginia Beach’s food heritage runs deep, going back to the Lynnhaven oysters that George Percy—one of the original Jamestown settlers—wrote about when he arrived here more than 400 years ago. “We have a really rich agriculture and aquaculture heritage,” says Patrick Evans-Hylton, who doubles as a food historian. “Back in the day, most restaurants didn’t have a choice but to pull from local farms and now, things have circled back around with a proliferation of farm-to-table restaurants, farmers markets, and craft products.”

Best breakfasts

Ray Ray’s at the Mayflower - “Ray is Filipino American and does ube pancakes (purple yam pancakes topped with coconut flakes, powdered sugar, and condensed milk) that are smack-your-mama good. I mean: I never smacked my mama, but they are so good that you go temporarily insane enough to smack your sainted mama,” says Patrick.

Mary’s - An old-school diner with good food and boozy milkshakes. “They always have a fresh catch—like flounder and eggs—for breakfast,” says Patrick.

The Bee & The Biscuit - In a 1900s cottage in Pungo, this local favorite is known for its fresh biscuits (try the flavor of the day, served with local honey butter) and custom-blended coffee.

Lunchtime

Taste - A high-style lunch spot with sandwiches to go. “Order the Hilltop (turkey and provolone on French bread with signature house dressing), sit on the beach, and eat it with extra sauce and a glass of unsweetened apricot ice tea,” says Katie.

The VB Picnic Co - A chic picnic company that will curate an Instagram-perfect pop-up picnic for you on the beach.

Kahiau’s Bakery & Café - “Owner Victoria Sgro is a classically French trained chef who became a vegan later in life and didn’t want to compromise at all on flavor,” says Patrick. “She spent a lot of years in Hawaii, so there is an island feel. She does a Philly-style pizza that will wow you.

Old Beach Farmers Market - Wander through this market, held on most Saturdays, and you can get samples and stories from the local farmers, plus scratch-made treats from food trucks and vendors.

Casual eats

Waterman’s Surfside Grille - An old-school spot on the boardwalk that’s known for its Orange Crush cocktails. “It’s a gem: A vintage beach cottage turned into a restaurant,” says Katie.

Aldo’s Ristorante - An authentic Italian mainstay that’s known for its Meatball Monday. “For something lighter, they do a beautiful crab salad mixed with half of an avocado,” says Patrick. “And their pastas are amazing.”

Seafood

Rockafeller’s Restaurant - “This is where I had my first seafood encounter in Virginia Beach,” says Patrick. “They’ve been around for thirty something years and it’s right on the Rudee Inlet, so you can watch the comings and goings of the boats. They have great crab cakes, but the seafood in general is amazing.”

Bubba’s Crabhouse - Grab a seat on the deck at this casual seafood spot. “You literally sit over the Chesapeake Bay and can see where the first oysters were written about 400-plus years ago,” says Patrick.

Coastal Grill - “One of the best seafood spots,” says Patrick. “What owner Jerry Bryan does is remarkable. There’s just a chalkboard with what is fresh.”

Zoës Steak & Seafood - “Fine dining that’s approachable,” says Patrick. “It has one of the top sommeliers on the East Coast with wines from $15 a bottle to $50,000. It used to have a larger reputation as a steakhouse, but I love to see what their fresh catch is.”

Global bites

Judy’s Sichuan - “I can only think of one other Chinese restaurant in San Francisco that I like better,” says Patrick. “Judy Sun is the chef-owner and everything is so amazing, from the soup dumplings to the mapo tofu. I crave it.”

Cobalt Grille - Chef Alvin Williams infuses his British influence in some of the dishes,” says Patrick. “His Beef Wellington makes me giddy.”

Jessy’s Taqueria - “I travel to Mexico quite a bit, so I can tell you that Jessy’s is the most authentic Guadalajaran food,” says Patrick. “It also has a little tienda next door where you can shop for imported food products.”

Date night

Terrapin - “I am obsessed with Terrapin,” says Katie. “The food never wavers, from the scallops to the fried chicken to the duck. If you only have one night in Virginia Beach, this is the place I’d go.”

Eurasia Cafe - A friendly neighborhood restaurant with an adjoining wine shop. “I love the oysters, the truffle mac & cheese, the wedge salad, the sauteed shrimp in gouda grits,” says Katie. “And if rockfish is on special, you have to get it.”

Esoteric - “Farm-to-table and locally sourced food from their own garden,” says Elizabeth Hartz. "Enjoy a leisurely evening dining al fresco next to the beautiful garden."

Drinks

The Raleigh Room - “A gorgeous bar in a beautiful seating at the Cavalier hotel,” says Katie. “Try the Smoked Old Fashioned cocktail made with Tarnished Truth bourbon from the award-winning on-site distillery.”

Chesapeake Bay Distillery – This distillery sells Patrick’s Four Fathering Spiced Rum, a spiced rum made with flavors based on what was being imported from the Caribbean in the 1600s.

Sweets

Lolly’s Creamery - A colorful ice cream shop in the ViBe District. “They rotate the flavors based on what’s in season. I always order the fresh fruit,” says Elizabeth.

Best Breweries

About five years ago, Bryan Daniels started brewing beer as a hobby. Part of the process includes rinsing malted barley then throwing away the spent grain. Bryan had a lightbulb moment: Why not partner with area breweries to turn all that healthy waste into delicious granola bars? Now, his All Good Craft Granola Bars have a cult following. We got Bryan to share a few of his favorite breweries in Virginia Beach.

Deadline Brewing Project - “A small place with eight or nine rotating beers on tap. Their flagship is the Blonde Ale, an approachable beer with a nice mouth feel and maltiness. Perfect for beer nerds like myself.”

Wasserhund Brewing Company - “This traditional German-style brewery follows the old-school rules about making beer and converts the yeast into pizza dough. If the Haywire Husky—a coffee lager—is on tap, that’s the one to get.”

Vibrant Shore Brewing Company - “A two-story beach house right in the middle of the Oceanfront area. The last time I was there, I had a Belgium Double, which has fruity notes like banana and clove—great for a hot day at the beach.”

Smartmouth - “This is one of the most popular breweries in the area and I’ve done collaborations with them—like a granola bar to go along with their Saturday Morning IPA, which is made with marshmallows from Lucky Charms cereal.”

Young Veterans Brewing Company - “Former military vets run this brewery where the beer names play off military tropes. Don’t miss the Pineapple Grenade, a wheat-style beer.”

Reaver Beach Brewing - “They’re the originators of craft beer culture in Virginia Beach, and if you’re going on a brewery crawl, I always recommend pairing this and Young Veterans because they’re so close to each other.”

“If you look at Virginia Beach from above, you can see the intricacies of all the different waterways and realize that it’s not just the beach: There are so many different areas to explore,” says Elizabeth Hartz. Here’s where the locals go when they want to get a breath of fresh air beyond the Boardwalk.

First Landing State Park - This massive park is also known as Seashore State Park and is the spot for hiking, biking, and kayaking (check out Chesapeake Outdoors for equipment). “My wife and I were married on the beach here, so it always holds a special place in my heart,” says Bryan Daniels. “And the sunsets are unbeatable.”

Cape Henry Lighthouse - Near the northern end of Virginia Beach, Cape Henry is home to a pair of lighthouses, including the fourth oldest lighthouse in the country. “It’s so accessible—you can ride your bike there,” says Elizabeth.

Virginia Aquarium - “The aquarium is great on a rainy day,” says Elizabeth. “And when the weather’s nice there’s an attached adventure park with rope courses and zip lines.”

False Cape State Park - This mile-wide barrier strip between Back Bay and the Atlantic Ocean has more than six miles of pristine beaches, plus over 300 species of nesting and migratory songbirds.

Arts and culture

Want to experience VB’s up-and-coming arts scene? Head to the ViBe Creative District (“ViBe” stands for Virginia Beach). This area is a hub for artisans of all disciplines and is known for its murals. We caught up with Kate Pittman, executive director of the ViBe District, to get her insider tips on how to make the most of a visit.

Take a Walking Tour - “Guided tours leave the First Friday of the month at 6 p.m. and every Second Saturday of the month at 10 a.m. from the LOVE sign at the corner of 18th Street and Cypress Avenue. Visitors can also have a self-guided smartphone tour using the ViBe Google Mural map online or by downloading a ViBe Walking Map.”

Murals - “The highest concentration of large wall murals is along 17th Street between Cypress and Pacific Avenue. A fan favorite is a mini-Mario World mural located on the 17th 1/2 Street Alley between Barrel 17 Burger Bar and Best Value Hardware, also home to the popular Dog Mural by Talent Murals.”

Best Selfies - “The 18th Street Parklet acts as an epic selfie wall for smaller children and pets as artworks are located on a fence along a safe walking path away from the road.”

Art Crawl - “Art lovers can start the day at Virginia MOCA, touring impressive exhibitions and enjoying hands-on interactives, then end the day with an afternoon visit to the Virginia Beach Art Center, where artists are working live in their shared studio spaces.”

Meet the Makers - “Visitors looking to meet with makers should stop in at The Alley on 19th Street to find artisan workshop spaces that also have retail.”

Coffee Break - “The ViBe District is also known as a mini coffee mecca. There’s great artisan coffee at five locations: Three Ships Coffee, Fathom Coffee, Bad Ass Coffee, Java Surf, and Commune.”

Shopping

We got Katie and Elizabeth to share their favorite shopping sources in town. Of course, any retail tour starts at their shop, Bees Nees, a by-appointment boutique that sells gorgeous housewares that allow you to bring the sunny Virginia Beach lifestyle home with you. Then check out this cheat sheet.

Lemon Cabana - “A fun take on gifts and clothing and home decor.”

Nectar - “Home décor and gifts. She also does gorgeous jewelry.”

Trish Boutique - “Trendy fashion.”

Jody G. - “Another fashion favorite.”

The Beach Nut - “A sweet place at Waterman's that has fun things like bags and jewelry.”

Beecroft & Bull - “The place for men's clothing.”

The Wandering Petal - “Beautiful fresh flowers.”

The Globe - “Gorgeous china.”